I picked up a Motorcraft 2150 (1.21) and tried to put it on my stock 302 in place of my Autolite 2100 (1.08). The bottom of the carb has a different shape and it causes a major vacuum leak when trying to bolt it down to either the PCV spacer or the manifold itself. Is there something I'm missing or a adapter plate needed? Even with the vacuum leak, the thing cranked right up, and idled great....lol. Thanks for the help!
If you can go to rock auto parts , you can see the different base plate gaskets used on these models an pick the right one you need.I would give you numbers ,but all of my books are at my ex's . That was my shop at one time.
I'll need a gasket for sure, but the actual base of the carb overhangs the old spacer and manifold where they bolt up. A gasket is only half of what I think I need. I'm not sure if it's an adapter I need or a non-EGR spacer....something else maybe?
If you have a pre-EGR spacer it should work flipped upside down, that was my plan till I yanked the orig engine last week for a 5.0 with 4bbl... Anyway check it out, for mine would have sealed the EGR in the intake and PCV pickup from bottom of carb... G'luck, YMMV...
i dont know specificaly about the carbs your using but usually a plate like this works for all square bore carbs. http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2732/10002/-1
I don't think flipping my PCV spacer will change anything due to the differences in the carb base shapes. I've attached a couple pics to show the differences. The red area is where the vac leak happens. Does anyone know of any non-EGR spacers that would work? I'm worried that the big square bore spacers would affect the flow of fuel/air since they are so open in the middle.
You're going to play hell finding a solid 2 bbl spacer for a 2150. Not sure why you'd want an emission carb to start with. I'd go get a Holley 350 and call it done.
I bought 2 working Motorcraft 2150 1.21 venturi carbs (351 cfm), a 1.08 parts carb and a working Autolite 1.14 venturi carb - all for $25. Was a deal I couldn't pass up. Worst case scenario is that I find some 1" thick aluminum and have our machinist at work cut me a spacer on our CNC or HAAS. I'd just rather buy one already engineered for what I want. I did find these thick gaskets that might work and also help keep some of the heat soak down. One has cored out sections (vacuum related?) and the other is solid. What do you all think? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FEL0/60529.oap?ck=Search_60529_-1_2304&keyword=60529 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_01056_1197020_2304&pt=01056&ppt=C0359
Ok I see your problem, I forgot some of those 1.21 were straight across the back... I have a 1/8" thick gasket with that shape, would seal if a little RTV were applied and allowed to set overnight, may even seal without RTV but I'd add a little just in case... Part number on this one is E5HE-9C477-AA, I know NAPA used to sell them...(yeah I just realized it's same as you pictured) For the spacer you probably need one from the EGR era to have the right pattern... I don't remember the early 1.21 having the straight cut across the back, sold the only one I had to a guy racing in a stock roundy-round class...
Did you have any problems with vac leaks on yours?...or do you just mean that you have a gasket like that but never used it on your 1.21?
I was going to use that gasket on the Comet but never did, would have been between the upside down spacer and intake on my application... Orig carb was staying in place, I just wanted to do away with the goofy EGR spacer and use the balanced vac port on the spacer vs the one on #7 runner that causes a lean misfire...
Having one made then is your best bet. Careful with those thick gaskets, their being soft makes tightening the nuts on the carb studs dicey, very easy to break off a corner of the carb base plate. The top one looks to be made of thick plastic, that'll likely solve your problem, use a thin gasket on either side of it. Just don't get to "happy" tightening the carb nuts, "wrist tight" with a 1/4" ratchet will do it.
Thanks for the heads-up! At least if I go ahead and pick up the gasket, I'll have a nice template to use when modeling up a new one in Solidworks for our machinist to mill out. I'm not sure how much aluminum we have...maybe delrin? I would pick aluminum first, but if we don't have enough, what other materials would work for fuel/heat? Also, once I get my model created and the sample cut...if it works well, I can pass this info/model along to any of you who might need it.
