i have a ando auto seat belt with the 8" door post extension. fits, works and looks good. http://www.andoauto.com/SBL8-1.htm i put the retractor on the floor with belt through the ashtray. so the big box is invisible. the only negative thing is, tha belt doesnt pull in completly, so it is a bit hanging lose when not used. but only like 1-2".
mine? i have no idea! bought the car with them and they are really comfy and look good. has new upholstery in the hole interior done by the preowner, so im staying with it. but the brackets to attach the rails to the floor were very poor made and not straight, so i made all new with the new floors i got in. --> see my project thread...
Where does this end go to? I seen that you ran it trough the ashtray on the rear panel. However my panels don't have the ash tray opening
I don't think it's white, it looks tan or some sort of tan. They matched the sun visors with the head liner and the seats
If the car had Orange interior, from the factory, it would have had a Orange headliner. But looking at the pictures of the one you removed, it's been replaced at some point in the cars life. Probably due to the fact, that an Orange one would be 3 times the cost, of a more generic one off EBay .
following! I live in TJ, down here there are not many mavs, so in vista i can consider you my neighbor.
I finally started working on my rear quarter panel.I found a maverick at the scrap yard and cut the piece that I needed. After blasting it, couple holes popped up so I drilled out the spot welds and covered the holes Finally welded on, not the best welds but I'm learning. I will cover couple holes tomorrow and start working on the back piece.The donor car that I got the patch from was a 71 (I believe)and it uses a different type of drain valve.And a 73 only has a hole that you cover with a plug The inside
Quick question. I am about to order a pair of seat belts but I'm debating over the color.With my interior what would look best, tan or orange? http://www.andoauto.com/SBLChart1.htm
Its been a while since Ive updated my thread been so busy with school. My maverick now has a T-5 with a Detroit true-trac diff with 3.55 on the 8". I got the Ron Francis complete harness and fusebox installed and absolutely love it. I finished the rear quarter panel job. All I had left was the back piece to it.At first I thought that I would be able to use the back piece of the 71 donor panel that I cut at the junkyard but It was different from my 73 so I had to make a new piece. I guess 70-72 uses a drain valve on the rear quarter and 73 and up just use a rubber plug. That little groove that pops out is the reason why I couldn't use the donor panel since 73 is different than earlier years.
Thanks Bry everything is going good so far. I'm loving the new gears. My teacher drove my car last week and he said that the T-5 and the gears made the maverick a total different car. He really liked the Pro 5.0 shifter. Put some POR15 on the back side. Next I tackled the floor pan. I used a Mustang floor pan. Had to bend and trim it. Primered the inside of the frame with Weld-Trough Primer More trimming When I was cutting out the other floor pan I ended up going a little to far and I cut into the frame. I welded it back up I'm thinking it should be ok Teacher didn't help me out one bit on the welding this time So I really got to learn a lot as far as adjusting the welder and not burning holes this time. Not the prettiest welds I know I know I didn't clean the bare metal before applying a coat of POR 15, so there was couple spots where it bubbled up and didn't stick. Once it dried I sanded down the bubbles and used metal solvent cleaner on the floor. Problem is I don't think I fully washed off all the solvent, so once I added another coat of POR 15 yellow stains appeared on the floor. I think I might just give it one last coat of POR15 to blend in the white seam sealer with the floor. This was picture was taken couple days after the por 15 dried up you can kind of see the yellow stains showing up. I also noticed how much of a ****ty job I did applying the seam sealer. Is there any trick to applying it so that it looks nicely done like the factory seam sealer?And should I also add seam sealer along the new floor pan where I welded it?
