Pypes/raceware 74 pro touring build

okay I lost track of your build and actually forgot about it but I had to go back and reread the whole thing and I didnt even know you did half of what you did. definitely some serious time and tons of money invested even up to this point. Ill keep watching.

Im still paying for the engine but once thats done Ill be starting on my chassis. maybe another two years until the engine and chassis are done.

 

OK continuation of the cage. The bars are starting to fall into place. You will notice how nice and tight the joints are thanks to the Grizzly mill.

 

Back half cage pictures. I can't do to much more with the back until the rear is in place and the brackets for the watts link and upper control arm is plotted. So it will be back up front for a while to intall the front shocks.

 

Dave,

I need some help -- I took some measurements of the inner rocker panel to the inner rocker panel and came up with 52 3/4" -- Is this what you got?

If* the statement is true..

What is the transmission hump on the floor? I came up with 26 9/16" (26.5625" Measured Driver to Center) /// 26 3/16 (26.1875" Measured from to Center) which would be true to the cars inner rocker panel to inner rocker panel measurement of 52 3/4" (52.7500")

Giving the off set of a total of 3/8" from center point of the transmission hump on the floor.

Would that sound familiar to what your measurements are showing on your build? Give or take a 1/8" (for manufacturer clearances lol)

* If the above is correct would the following be correct?

My rear transmission 'safety' loop measures a total length of 59.1250 (59 1/8")

So, if I wanted to achieve the proper center point of the drive line, I would need to achieve a total length after cuts of 52 3/4.

Therefore, I would need to remove a total of 3.5000" (3 1/2") on Passenger side, and 2.8750 (2 7/8") on Driver side (6 3/8" total removed from xmember)

3.5000 + 2.8750 = 6.3750 (6 3/8")
6 .3750 + 52.7500(Y) = 59.1250(X) (59 1/8")

Y = Inner rocker panel to Inner Rocker Panel
X = Overall length of trans loop

The 'off set' between driver side, and pass side would be a total of 0.6250 (5/8) which is a 'manufacturer clearance of 1/8 - ' compared to the inner frame rail to inner frame rail 'center point' i measured on the floor. Which could also mean there was a 1/8" rise in the tape measure going over the center hump of the floor.

Am I doing this right? I want to cut once, and not be wrong.

 

Upper control arm? Going 3-link now?

 

Interested in seiing how your Watts bracket comes out - I'm at that point rifght now - I need to build my Watts cradle just behind the 9 inch as soon as it get a little warmer out when heat in the garage actually makes a difference

 

Watts on what appears to be a drag car? Thanks out of the norm!
I may have to Cortex one left over that I paid a fortune for. Looks like another piece of the kit I won't be using.

 

Way always going to be a 3 link. I hope you didn't think I was taking your Idea.

 

Dave, did you see my post on the previous page? Also receive my pm?

 

Mine is being built as a caged street car - no drag car

 

Nah... I didnt think Cortex OR Griggs did a 3-link. Everything I've seen from them is a Torque arm (some people call it a 3-link) so thats what I thought you were referring to.

The 3-link will be great. Its much lighter and WAY more adjustable.

 

Yes I did and thank you. You pose a series of complicated questions that are easier answered if you have all the parts. The tunnels in our our cars are slightly offset, that didn't matter to me because I was cutting it all out from the beginning. I ended up with the offset driveline by accident my intension was to square everything to the body.

The way I would proceed with your car is take whatever suspension system you are using and locate the front cross member. You will have to take into consideration the axle centerline, location of bracket mounting holes on the rear and adjustability of the suspension components. Once you are comfortable with your measurements you can cut your floor.

From there you will need your wheels and tire to determine ride height, housing width and frame rail width. The wider you can make the frame rails the more stable the ride for a street car. Purchase the rear then you can work on locating all the brackets you suspension system. Hope that helps.

 

I put a watts on a 9" many years ago, but it was at the pinion center, not behind the axle................and it worked great. Here is something very close to what I did:

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0601sr_hot_rod_rearend/viewall.html

Also a picture of a watts linkage for the 9", home made of course.

 

Very Nice!

 

I really like how simple the Watts set up is in the link that you supplied - I was going to build a cradle behind the rear but, after seeing the front mount, I'll have to check to see if everything will clear my 4 link bars