Not saying those are junk.. but I've heard mixed results with that particular mfgr. As with anything running a reduced price tag.. buyer beware.. and ALWAYS check the spec's before bolting things up.
What about using the 289 length rod? For just a little better rod angle. I'm just asking because I have been looking at parts for my engine also.
Another Chinese made rod, cast and ruff machined in China and sent to USA for final finishing. SCAT, CAT, and Eagle are all made in China also, sent to the USA and final machined here.......................the 408 has SCAT rods and ARP2000 bolts and now on its second block with the same rods and crank............not saying Chinese parts are junk..............the rods and crank in the 408 are pre-China.......................nothing wrong with a good used set of Crower, Cunningham or Oliver rods..................as long as they are setup correctly.
will your motor make power that far up the rpm band? my motor isnt anything special but I had it on a dyno and ran it to 8500 rpms it stopped making power at 7200 im just wondering if they actually make power that high when built. get a girdle running that close to 500 hp youre pressing your luck and it sounds like youre spending good money on the parts youre putting in. it would be a shame for the block to give up and the internals be smashed from not spending a little money on a girdle for insurance I was building for a 500 horse motor then I was looking at the cost of the extra work having to be done to the old block and the parts I was having to buy to hold it together and I wasnt too far from a dart block so I went with a new dart block and went to 1000hp and have plenty of room to spare should I decide to go for more hp (im not Im already sceered thinking of that kinda power under my toes )
I will be putting a girdle on it and lightening up the pistons. The goal is to get the car in the 10's with the budget constraints I have with 5 kids and all. When I have flow #s for the heads we'll spec a cam to get close to 500 HP and that will dictate the RPM range. With a light enough chassis it should be in the tens.
glad to hear your putting in a girdle I just didnt want you to have that thing come apart on you after spending all that money. I hear you on the budget I got lucky enough to have an engine builder that will let me give him $100 here and there until its done I think your car would hit 10 with 500 ponies running under the hood are you going natural or boosted?
I'm lucky that my best friend is a shop manager and top notch machinist! (who owes me favors I might add) It will be N/A with solid roller, Canfield heads and 750 Holley.
what compression ratio will you have? just curious to know what ratio your guy reccommended for your set up
not that you shouldn't use one for shoring up the bottom end and improving on bearing life.. but girdles do nearly nothing for keeping these blocks from splitting. That's because it cracks from the topside in the valley area where all the side loading occurs. RPM and horsepower related thrust loads push the V layout apart.
Your build sounds somewhat similar to mine. 8,000+ RPM combined with longer rods and an ultra-light de-stroked assembly is the way I'm going. The snottier the better. We should PM some notes sometime to compare builds.
This is all true. The girdle will only: 1.) help prevent/reduce some cap walk 2.) hold some things together AFTER the block splits.
Anyone have any experience with the lifter valley girdles? Do they help much? http://www.horsepowersales.net/valleygirdlepro.htm
