Any reason I shouldn't move the wiring harness to run behind engine?

I moved my solenoid to the back behind where the shock tower was, and now I notice that much of the wiring goes along the front under the radiator, then comes back into the bay.

Is there any reason why I couldn't/shouldn't cut the cover off the wires and run most of them (minus lights and horn) along the back of the firewall to the solenoid?

 

I see no issues with that. I have a harness I already made that I would be more than willing to send to you. You would just have to tap into the firewall block witht he new wires. Even have a rear taillight harness.

 

Isn't it in front of the wheels, so it has less of a chance of getting wet? and stays out of the heat of the engine?

 

Lzoesch..interested...more details? What all is included?

Almost tempted to go a full Painless harness, at this point. Some of those wires are getting crispy.

That was my first concern...if I started to pull off the wire loom, would the wires inside be so crispy that they would crumble in my hands???

Dave, anything I run behind the engine will be put in a loom, for dry/insulation. I would also mount it up high just under the cowl lip, so it would stay dry, and HIDDEN!

 

The wires are stiff enough in my harness that I picked a warm day and laid it in the sun for 30-40 minutes just prior to reinstall... That went well enough but I doubt they'd have been happy if rerouted in another direction...

 

Shoot me a text, and Ill respond with some pictures. 509-901-4887


Also, most of the wires that route under the radiator support is mainly lights/blinkers/horn etc -- Which is what I have, I could also include some extra length wire(s) so that you could do your coil, ignition, etc.

I have access to unlimited amount of free wire in any gauge, size, and color

 

Text sent. Hope your phone doesn't wake you up. We are a couple hours ahead of you.

Thanks in advance!

That stiffness was what I was worried about. I grabbed the loom and tried to straighten it out by bending it and I wouldn't doubt if wires broke. It was pretty crunchy sounding!

 

Woa!!! I just looked up the prices on Painless wire harness!!!

I better be a little more careful with my existing wires...

 

Check out Ron Francis Wiring. They came highly recommended to me by many members aswell as some of my hot rod friends. Their customer service has been amazing.

 

Still $700 for a full harness!!!

For some reason, I assumed $150 or thereabouts. I guess I never looked at the prices of them in the past.

Either way, I don't want to do a full replacement. The interior of my car is assembled, which would make for a difficult swap.

I just want to fix what is under the hood.

Also, a replacement harness wouldn't work on all the extra electronics I have under there. Nowhere near stock.

 

P/N 10123
21 Circuit Customizable 1966-76 Ford Chassis Harness
$529 at speedway motors.
someday i might just try this.

most likely going to use
www.ez2wire.com
510008 POWER PLUS 20 Wiring Harness By American Autowire
Retail Price: $299.00
Your Price $253.99
Your Savings: $45.01

 

It is very easy to make your own harness get a diagram of what you want to run (all over the internet) lights horn etc.. get the correct size wire ,new pigtails learn to solder use heat shrink tubing and whatever loom you want to wrap it in and do it yourself you will save hundreds of dollars if you don't have any knowledge of basic electricity buy a book on the subject and read it car wiring is really easy for the average joe

 

Have you looked at the small three or seven circuit supply that Painless sells??? I'm adding one(on order) to my Comet for Ign, Fan, choke, headlights, etc...

Yeah sure, how many times have you seen guys that can't even repl a set of plug wires without crossing them up??

 

the ron francis harnesses range from $350 to $550
the quality and attention to detail is incredible.

 

I drilled a nice big hole right by where the harness comes through the firewall and routed out the outside of the apron for a clean install. It still runs along the front but everything is routed with adel clamps and weather protection. Since my MSD box is in the stock battery location I just popped the wires through the apron there. Solenoid is back behind the passenger side tower. Overall I think it looks super clean. I attached a couple of photos before everything was buttoned up. Still a few loose wires but you get the idea.

http://maverick.to/mmb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49204&d=1306647969

http://maverick.to/mmb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49328&d=1307251744