Drip Rail Removal and Gauges

Discussion in 'Cosmetic' started by Angryeyes, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. Angryeyes

    Angryeyes Member

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    Very unrelated but no point in making two threads:

    1) Anyone ever remove the drip rail completely? I might just be reciprocating saw and angle grinder happy right now but it seems like it'd be easy...

    2) Cutom gauges... where in the world do we mount them? Im contemplating cutting into the dash, but either side of the existing gauge "mound" seems like it'd be easy to make a gauge pod for...
     
  2. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    I removed the drivers side on a 71 Mav. and reinstalled it. it was sticking out farther than the pass.side...:yup:
     
  3. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    :outtahere:...:drive:...:chirp:
     

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  4. junrai

    junrai Member

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    the drip rail is easier removed with a torch take a torch to the drip rails theyre full of lead filler melt away the lead and fill in the gap once you take a grinder to the body

    I seen it done on I wanna say power block tv of course it looked stupid easy but it really cant be that difficult now can it? lol
     
  5. Angryeyes

    Angryeyes Member

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    i was gonna say it looks like once i remove those rails they wont go back on hahaha, and nice gauges but i was talking more... my AFR and boost gauge :D
     
  6. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    On a Maverick they are filled with plastic seam sealer, the roof is welded on by the drip rails, you need to cut them off, and weld the seam back together.
     
  7. Angryeyes

    Angryeyes Member

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    on a comet...?
     
  8. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    It's the same car....
     
  9. Angryeyes

    Angryeyes Member

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    well i guess theyre staying then..
     
  10. lm14

    lm14 Member

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    Drip rail removal is an old custom thing. It's very expensive to have done. It is a lot of work on any car. You'll basically be welding the roof skin back on and you had better be ready for a lot of body work.

    SPark
     
  11. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    the article I read on them being removed suggested cutting a short piece at a time off and welding it up. I think that was to keep the top from distorting...
     
  12. car-nut

    car-nut Glenn

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  13. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Did you remove it in short sections and weld it back as you went? What about filler? I bought a lead kit from Eastwood that I am going to use as suggested by my body man :)
     
  14. car-nut

    car-nut Glenn

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    I did do fairly short sections at a time. I felt more comfortable that way. I don't do filer work on bare metal, so after epoxy priming the areas I used Upol Fiberal first, then filler to clean it all up. Lead would be a great way to go, but since I have never done it before I didn't want to experament here.

    Glenn
     
  15. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Thanks for the information, Glenn :)

    I never worked with lead before either but there are a lot of things that I never did until this build LOL! Dale Doll will do the final body work/paint and he seems to have the faith in me that I can do it so, with his guidence, I bought the kit from Easdtwood containing the real lead - I plan on rolling the car out of the garage in the spring and work on it in the fresh air along with a respirator - Dale says the "safe" lead kit will not work as well so we shall see :rolleyes:
     

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