1970 Maverick project.

Thanks for the correction!

 

I have a question for the masses, car runs great when the vac advance is not hooked up. I went and bought a new vac hose hoping it was that but when it's running and I suck on the hose, it still runs like doodoo. The vac advance does hold a vac when put on it, doesnt bleed off which tells me the diaphragm is still good. Any suggestions?

 

Ok. For those that havent been subject to my threads/posts. My 3 way vent system for my fuel tank(thank you California emissions) is broken and of course it is not remanufactured. I took my tank to a welder to see if he could plug the existing hole and make a new one for a normal vent valve. He wouldn't touch it, said it would be to hard, blah, blah, blah. So I got creative and purchased an assortment of vacuum connectors. Drilled out the holes progressing slowly to the right size and I am able to use them and hook my tank back up using the existing system. I'm gonna use some RTV or some sealant so it doesnt leak but they are a pretty snug fit. The shorter holes ones I will cut of the connector to make them fit flush.
Who saves you cant engineer...saves me $300.00 on a new tank.

 

Final result. May have to super glue the shorter ones but I'll see after I let them set over night.

 

Well I got everything hooked back up once my sending unit showed up today. The arm is longer than what I am assuming is the original. I have about half a tank of fuel but it is only reading a 1/4 tank. Is there anyway to make it accurate?
As far as driveability of the car, front end is definitely out of whack. Suspension is gonna have to be changed for sure BUT it drove down the road to the gas station, shifted good although i didnt push it over 30mph.
Any suggestions on parts? Control arm replacement or just bushings? I'm gonna check out to see what Moog has to offer but I'm sure there are folks out there with opinions.

 

When I awoke my '73 from three decades of slumber, I only replaced the most horribly worn front-end components. Bad idea. I should have done everything all at once. My next project is the last third of the suspension rebuild: upper control arms, spring perches, spring isolators, strut-rod bushings and another alignment. Mavericks handle well and are non-scary when all the wear parts are working as the Ford family engineers intended.

 

Spring isolators?? And the strut rods are the rods from under the radiator that go back and are adjustable?

 

Yes. Spring isolators are those rubber disks that prevent noisy metal-to-metal contact where the coil spring seats. And the part of the strut rod assembly that gets replaced are the rubber bushings under the radiator (the other end is bolted to the lower control rod). I'm just recommending doing the entire front suspension all at once (something I didn't do myself).

 

I agree w/ the previous post -- do all suspension at once. Get one alignment and be done with it.
If going w/ control arm bushing, go w/ screw in type. I made the mistake of buying press-in's and could never get them pressed in the arm. I would replace the entire upper arm at about $65.00 ea., is probably the easiest way to go, that's what I wound-up doing -- wish I had did it from start. Isolaters go on top of the spring and tower-make sure you have it oriented correctly. Be careful w/ spring removal "Could Be Harmful to Your Health".

 

I am in agreement on replacing everything. I have read about the coil spring saddles...I guess they move with the car instead of being stationary?

 

I appreciate all the help guys, I placed my orders today for my front end parts:
Moog:
Inner and outer tie rods
Strut rod bushings
Sway bar end links
Tie rod adjusting sleeves
Upper and lower control arms
Auto Krafters:
Centerlink
CJ Pony:
Coil Spring Isolators
Amazon:
Idler Arm..which was cheaper than Rock Auto after shipping.

Only thing left is the coil spring saddles, I plan on driving the car but nothing dramatic but wasn't sure if the roller bearing saddles would be worth the cost, especially since the old style have worked over the years.

 

I say go ahead and get the roller spring saddles, I have had a set on my car for 4 years now and 10K miles late I still have no issues with them. Even as a regular driver there is a noticeable difference in handling especially when you are going around a corner. It is worth the money if you have the extra budget.

 

What's the best tool to use for compressing the springs? I have searched and read on here and others seem to have their own opinions. I have a 4 part compressor but not sure that it's going to work after reading.

 

I have used this style multiple times with out issue. Just go slow and do NOT use a impact gun.