yeah, this carb has kind been a pita. im just hoping i did it right hahahaha. ohh, ok. yeah i getcha. i got my secondary metering block conversion in the mail today and got that on there. now that i think about it. the throttle rod didnt have them on there when i took it apart. it does have the channels though which kind of freaks me out, but i dont think ill be able to find these bearings any where anyway. also, these lead balls came with the kit. i have no idea what theyre to.
As to "staking" I was taught to take like a chisel and pound it into the screw to run a line through the threads that pushed each thread "up" towards the head. This would cause the threads to bite on the way out and prevent them from easing out. Kind of like a self-tapping screw, but in reverse.
Sounds like you are enjoying your "new" carb!!! My first holley was just like this. It was old, needed lots of work, and I had no idea where it was tuned to. But I learned a lot from it, and eventually sold it off and got a newer more modern style. AFTER working out all the bugs, and realizing my engine wanted more carb (or I could have done some SERIOUS drilling and permanent changes to the carb, but I did not want to go there). So I say keep playing with this one, learn along the way, and you will either figure it out, or end up buying a newer one and are ahead of the learning curve.
haha YES! it's fun, but the only way to tell if im doing it right is to see how it works when im done. im deffinately gonna keep messing around with this carb. hmm the staking sounds pretty simple. oo! also, the tech support dude at holley told me my carb was built on the 266th day of 1979. they give good info, but they like to keep their email brief. like 1 sentence answers and they dont answer all of the questions. they probably get a lot of traffic on their tech support emails.
Or that was the only question he knew the answer to............. Good luck with it, you'll need it. After a couple of the old ones like it, I learned to buy the "little used" lookin ones for $100-150. Most of em bolt on and are fine with only changing the powervalve and accellerator pump diaphrams, the only two parts that get dried out and rupture after sitting for any length of time. You can always buy a new base plate assembly to get around changing the bushings.
thanks! yeah thats probably the smarter path. true. hopefully i wont need to. we shall see and ill post my results if i ever get them.
