would these work http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/Gates-Unicoil/943357/10002/-1 they say its supposed to go on the outside but do you guys think it would also be able to go on the inside. my lower hose currently doesnt have a spring in it and I think that its causing overheating problems in my car. I need help
No, need to go on the outside. Cool for other outside applications, though. I am throwing away a couple of these. Couldn't use them anywhere.
I take springs out of old discarded hoses to get them in mine. I don't understand why ALL lower hoses don't come with springs, only some do. I have also used a coathanger and bent it into a tight coil slightly smaller than the hose, the expanded it to length, and installed. My truck has had one of these for about 4 years now.
The only thing I would point out is that sprung hoses have the spring secured to keep the water pump from sucking it up. I have been lucky and haven't had a problem with springs/hangers being free inside the hose... I guess what I am saying is do it at your own risk. I would feel bad if I didn't make this comment, then you came back later and felt like I suggested something that caused damage to your property. Just sayin'...
1.) Are u sure it's the lower hose w/o a spring causing the overheating issue? 2.) Do you have a gud temp gauge to indicate temp? What temp do u run? I don't have a spring and don't have overheating issue.
Not having a spring doesn't hurt anything until the hose starts getting soft. It can be soft, yet still have plenty of life left before being useless, so the spring keeps the hose from sucking shut from the suction of the water pump on the radiator. Good point though, not having a spring in the hose is certainly not a priority reason for overheating. I lost 3 head gaskets in 2 days to a soft lower hose once before I figured out what the problem was! So a spring is definately an ounce of prevention.
yeah the temp gauge works. its runs to about 230-240 sometimes. sometimes it even the engine shuts off. I bought a champion cooling aluminum radiator and changed the tstat but the problem of overheating is still there. the lower hose is the last thing i can think of.
Overheating... Stat Radiator Lower hose collapse Radiator cap not holding pressure Head gasket failure around cooling passages Air in the system Fan shroud missing Malfunctioning clutch fan Engine block cylinder walls not thick enough for the amount of overbore used in last rebuilding of engine... common in Ford v8s. Timing too far advanced Spark plug heat range too hot Electric fan wired to run in reverse Electric fan, or any fan, with too little air flow to meet cooling needs Electric fan automatic thermostat is malfunctioning or set at wrong temp. (I have had fan control stat failures a few times)
how do you get air out of the system. and when it heats up to 230-240 its stays and it doesnt want to go down. I have no shroud and I also put the electric fan that came with the champion radiator on it.
The fan is probably not big enough for the demand... Or Electric fans are reversible... Is it possible you have the fan running backwards. That would cool, but not too effectively, especially when steady driving down the highway. I'm add this stuff and more to my previous post...
ok I will check the fan what about taking the air out of the system. how would you know if there is air in the system.
On older cars like ours, it's just a matter of letting the car sit and run up to operating temp with the radiator cap off and heat on high. Then letting it run for another several minutes through a few thermostat cycles... Topping off the coolant each cycle, until the system cycles another time or two without needing topped off. It's called 'burping', but not quite as complicated as burping a later model car fortunately. Getting rid of air pockets not only stops hot spots around the combustion chamber, but keeps the water pump flowing at max capacity as well because air pockets can cause cavitation.
