Need help with easiest way to change frost plugs.

Being knowledgeable is recognizing a part by the many names its referred to. Frost/Freeze has nothing to do with it, but I've never heard a single person ever say "Core Plug" in real life. I'm hoping everyone understood what the question was asking. Like when the parts store doesn't know what a spring perch/saddle is. I'm used to converting technical language to layman's terms, but isn't the joy of being a car guy that we dont have to frig around with the exact technical terms?

Here is a pic of the first plug I had to change on the passenger side above the starter. Second plug doesn't look quite as bad but is leaking. All look pretty rough.

 

i think you should be able to change the plugs with out pulling the motor.
you will need to support the motor and remove the motor mounts. then you can swing the motor a little bit side to side the get better access. you can even lower the motor some to get better access.

as for ways to to support the motor, you can use a jack pushing on a 2x4 across the the oil pan. or you could put a cross bar on the shock towers and use a good ratchet strap to support the motor.

when putting the freeze/frost/core plugs in, coat the sides that press into the holes with some sort of sealant. this will help make sure no leaks occur from any scratches or imperfections.

 

This is what I was hoping to learn.

I realize that OP was more concerned with REACHING the plugs as opposed to actually removing and inserting them.

 

Awesome. Thanks Bryant. Ill try to do it that way and hope I have enough room. Might have to buy one of those ball socket installation tools to make it easier.

 

Freeze Plugs
Core Plugs (referred to as "Freeze" plugs) are part of any engine block and are used to block off coolant or oil passages that were created during the block molding process. The freeze plugs are not technically designed to pop out should water freeze in the block, and 99.99% of the time they won't, so the designation is actually a misnomer. "Freeze" plugs are simply plugs and serve no other purpose than to block a hole. Most people refer to them as "Freeze" plugs, so for the purpose of the How-to that will remain the case.

How to Install a Freeze Plug

After removing the old plug, clean the edges of the freeze plug hole on the block with a soft cloth. There should be no impurities remaining in the hole when installing a new freeze plug.

Your new freeze plug should match the size of the old freeze plug, if it is too large it will not install and if too small it will leak. Also, do not ever use any additional sealants or epoxies when installing a freeze plug, they will adversely affect the installation and may break off after drying inside your block thus clogging coolant passages in your cooling system.

Take the new freeze plug and place it level against the hole in the block. Place a socket (from a ratchet set), that is just a little bit smaller than the diameter of the plug, against the new plug. Hammer the socket and drive the new freeze plug into the block. It is important the plug go into the hole evenly, thus the use of the socket. This is preferred over just banging on the edges of the freeze plug which almost always warps it and ruins the install. It is also very important that the socket not be too big, because the freeze plug will compress a small amount as it is driven into the hole. If the socket is too big, you will have a hard time removing it after installing the freeze plug!

Finally, the general rule is to ensure that the freeze plug is flush with the machined hole - do not press it in any further. If you suspect the freeze plug should be driven further into the hole all you need to do is compare it to the existing freeze plugs that are still in the block and compare the depth of the the new plug to that of the old plug. Asking someone who is an expert on the engine you are working on is also advised.

 

Frank, your writing style "almost" sounds like something you would read from a book or how-to website!

 

straight from the innertube...

 

The OEM plugs will be thinner than the replacements, I've always knocked them inside the block and pulled them out with a pair of pliers... Also douche out the block through the openings once plugs are removed, if you don't the crud in the block will eat up the new plugs on short order(unfortunately I have the T-Shirt for that one)... OK you are using brass but the sediment is acidic, get as much out as you can... When reinstalling I wipe a thin coat of RTV on the plug, acts as a lubricant so it slides in more easily(now you guys can relate to that)...

As already suggested, you should be able to raise engine enough to remove motor mounts and starter to have enough space to work... If you have enough room, a large socket that just fits inside the plug and old 1/2" extension makes for a great driver...

 

hitting one with a BFH is what makes them old...

 

Sears doesn't care...

They'll give shiny replacements for just about whatever hand tool one takes them that says Craftsman...

 

I have a long semi round punch to knock them out with then clean the goop out as mentioned. I then dress the bore with some emery cloth, wipe it down, then coat just the edge of the plug with loctite 262 (red) around the outside edge to seal up any imperfections. You might also look into some of the parts stores that loan/rent tools for the ball driver if you can't get on it relatively straight. All of the ones on the block can be done in the car. The 2 on the back of the cylinder heads might be a different story. I raised up one side at a time and removed the mount to access the plugs. It just takes a little patience.

 

Awesome info guys. Ill try to post a pic.

Looks Like I might have to find some new motor mounts though...