check for vacuum leaks. if its running lean it will run hotter. the idea of a shroud is so air that is pulled from the fan has to come through the radiator. your shields around your fan have huge gaping holes all around which makes the fan pretty ineffective. also the t-stat is required to regulate the flow of the coolant to both absorb the heat from the motor and dissipate the heat in the radiator. when the coolant is not regulated, it can slowly climb in temp till it over heats. i suspect you have a combination of these problem and maybe the timing too happening here.
Good - eliminates that possibility. Agree ...... You said your car had A/C at one time. There are a bunch of vacuum lines associated with A/C besides the vacuum lines for emission controls. Intake leak too can lean out the engine
230* is NOT overheated with unleaded fuel. 250* after the engine is shut off is also quite normal. And contrary to what someone posted, some electric fans DO need a shroud (mine did, as it didn't come with a shroud) If you want it to run cooler, swap out that 190* T-Stat for a 160* to let the cooling system operate to it's maximum sooner. If it spit coolant out, you need to install a "catch can" to capture the coolant and/or install a higher pound rated radiator cap.
Yeah you guys were right I went ahead and got a shroud. As For the vaccume leaks I have none because I went ahead capped off a lot of stuff and my vaccume pressure gauge id reading that im in the good when I last did it. My dizzy was advanced further than when I remeber doing it and therefore I retarded it to just give it a shot and re tuned my air fuel ratio. I now sit at 190 with no thermostat I figure I will run cooler once I put it back in and add more coolant since a significant amount was spat out. Im going to go get an electric fan tomorrow but idk if I should find one that fits behind the radiator or reverse polarity and have it in front of the radiator.
I run a 16" shallow depth Flex-a-Lite puller. It is my opinion the pullers are more efficient; besides, there's not a lot of room in these cars for a 16" in front of the rad. I fabbed a shroud that covers most of the area that the fan does not cover. I cud tell the difference in air draw after putting on the shroud.
I've used them for circle track racing and alway had them mounted inside of the radiator - I bought a Spall electric fan for my Maverick and the rotation can be changed by how you hook up the wiring
Okay so I have and an efan and yet im still overheating. I picked up a fan and shroud from pull-a-part mounted it and No luck. I dont understand why the heck I am having this issue. I put the thermostat back I and played with timing and adjusted fuel ratio. Any more ideas again?
Its currentlt 87 degrees and I did a bit more heavy driving. It seemed to be acting fine but highway driving proved that to be false. Also my brand new radiator is beginning to have some of the same rusty granules deposited in the fins that I can see at the top when I open the cap. Im Just ready to be over this issue that should be a simple fix
Be sure to put the thermostat back in. At highway speeds its probably letting the water circulate to fast to cool it. Vinegar will clean that cooling system pretty good btw.
I always figured it was debris from the age of the vehicle and i thought that's what was clogging the old radiator so i flushed my engine out and got a new radiator. I never thought about it till now but I thought maybe you could be right. the water pump is not even a year old but it is the 30 dollar one from autozone (which might be the problem) and i was running water in the old radiator for a good second and letting it sit for periods of time which may not have been so bueno. I believe the water pump is maybe not completely broken but not doing its job well enough to hold steady on the highway. Anyways like the genius i was i bought a lifetime warrenty so ill swap one tomorrow and rule out that idea.
