What rusty granules are talking about? Did you ever dump any kind of "stop leak" crap in the old radiator? Did this problem start when you installed the new radiator or did you install the new radiator in an attempt to correct an overheating problem? I would disconnect both hoses from the radiator, remove the thermostat, start it up and flush the motor out with a garden hose to see what kind of crud comes out. Keep an eye on the temp gauge and don't let it overheat. Obviously you are going to have to flush out the new radiator at this point too. Sounds like a clogged toilet, better get the plunger.
So tomorrow weather permitting I will: *Remove the water pump. Trade and get a new one *take thermostat off and flush engine *reinstall thermostat flush radiator *Connect new waterpump, connect radiator and see what happens.
I really try not to but college is expensive and you gotta do what you gotta do man. Ill probably go to napa by the end of the summer and get their water pumps. This should last me till then plus a new one with my warranty is just necessary in tracking down my issue
Been there....done that. Always enough time and money to do it over...but never enough to do it right the first time.
Okay so I have replaced everything cooling related except the hoses which are not closing up. I think maybe my shroud still is not good enough ill post a picture. I have done everything suggested. My radiator is clean,pump is brand new engine was flushed, timing checked, not lean what so ever. Brand new thermostat -160. New cap, coolant full. Im stumped again.
Id purchase a shroud that fits perfectly except i dont know of any shrouds to just perfectly fit my aftermarket radiator
I have no shroud and my car does not heat up at all in 100+ degree california summers. I also have the cheapie autozone pump. Maybe the engine block flush was not good enough and kept some junk in the engine which is causing blockage.
No way to tell while im driving. It could be a possibility since neither of my hoses have springs. Only thing is there is not really a sign of rapid climb. Like tonight i went for a test drive went about ten miles driving on the street then ten on the highway. The first 10 i stayed at 160 made a u turn then started a gradual climb to about 200 about 5 miles in. Got off the highway and still climbed.
Since they do not sell hoses with the springs for out particular application at the local auto parts, I bought a flex hose and cut it open and put the spring my lower hose.
what is your base timing at? whats your timing at 2500 rpm? if the timing is too retarded it will build excessive heat. i have see advancing the timing fix heating issues like this. also if your car is running lean it will build more heat. you mentioned that you checked air fuel ratio, how did you do it?
I was thinking maybe that was an issue as well. I already had plans to check tomorrow.Havent used a timing light on my timing in the midst of all this. Its more than likely pretty retarded right now. Really this whole situations is retarded...either way tomorrow after work i will check timing properly rather than by ear. Im idling low at 250-300. In park it bumps up to 500 I believe. I can feel the sluggishness. Ill up my rpms and maybe idle around 700. And ill use my light in order to determine how many degrees out I am. I checked air fuel with vaccum gauge.
