To have a maverick built for autocross? Mainly suspension I want the car to be able to handle the corners tightly. I have 15k to drop in a project so many options run through my mind and I wouldnt mind building an autoX mav. I have researched some suspensions but i have no idea where to start. Please put your input and links to products
I like this coilover kit, but also for this price you can get a mustang 2 type suspension and have all the room you could dream of in the engine bay. http://www.globalwest.net/1970-77maverick.html
you can do a lot with 15k the best thing to spend some money on is driving lessons. scca does offer classes a couple of times a year. look into that. look into maier suspension. they got the 60s mustang dialed in. every thing would work on a maverick. i would get spherical bearings for the strut rods, the maier lower control arms. any tubular upper control arm like the maier or cpp arms. do the shelby drop on the upper control arm mount location, some roller spring perches like on daze cars. some 2 way adjustable shocks, i would talk to maier about what weight springs to run. i would put some polyurethane bushings in the rear leaf springs and put a watts link on it. get some 2 way adjustable shocks for the rear, reinforce the upper shock mount location. i would put some willwood disk brakes on the front. if you still want to spend more money i would put willwoods on the rear end also. i would get top rangers monte carlo bar, shock tower brace and belly bar. i would put subframe connectors on. get some 17 or 18" wheels with the best tires you can afford. check with the scca, they just started a class for muscle cars, look into the rules to make sure all of the modifications are legal. figure out what rpm power band and speeds the autox track near you will have you running at and gear the rear end to keep you in second gear the whole time. then take some more driving lessons.
wow thanks for the quick responses. I have always considered the Mustang ii swap but I wasn't sure of it when it comes to autocross. original plan was to build a bbf maverick but after weighing options I rather to a lightweight maverick mainly because drag racing is dieing out slowly here. Also I want to be able to keep the imports in check since the only argument they have is their car handles better I can only go straight
If you want a auto cross car, stay away from a Mustang II front suspension, it's 40 year old technology, and the setups are limited, if you are serious about this, there are better choices out there.
Its between doing a maverick autocross or an old datsun z which i love both cars but i have more ties and knowledge to mavericks
I believe Bryant and Dave have you on the right track with their replies. Basically.. look for any components that fortify and improve upon the factory design weaknesses without having to cut, chop, grind, and modify the original design will be more than sufficient for what you are trying to accomplish here. Global west total control products maier and a few others I can't think of right now all offer factory style suspension upgrades that will get the job done. Also plan on getting the gearing and torque band tailored for best results as mentioned above. And unless you plan on open track road racing or pushing higher speeds?.. you won't need 13" 6 piston calipers for short runs. Stay lighter and cheaper(put that money elsewhere where it has bigger impact on lap times) with the brake system and run very aggressive track compound pads to maximize grip and heat tolerance.
Sorry, I had typed up a response with links before I left the office this morning, but must have missed the enter key... Street or Track, is a pretty awesome company, the owner will work with you to determine spring rates, and they offer different shocks for what you plan on doing.
Back when I built my car, about ten years ago, I went with Global West uppers and lowers on the front with Mustang spindles and springs, and single piston calipers, it's what I could afford at the time...stayed with leaf springs in the rear, but with the del-a-lum eyelet bushings, and roller bearing sliders in place of the shackles. 1 1/8' front sway bar, I had a rear sway bar on it, but found it was more stable under power on corner exit without it. Traction Master traction bars. Versailles 9" with 3.70 gears, Tremec 3550......highway speeds are not a problem. Half of my 'budget' on the car was spent on underhood longevity. I didn't spend an arm and a leg on my car, yet it is still a fun car on track, and at cruise nights. Hope this helps. And as far as the imports "handling" better....tell them good handling doesn't mean riding around on the bump-stops with 45 degrees of negative camber at all four corners, and making the BOV gasp at every shift.
You can go a couple different routes, it depends on how much labor you want. If you want bolt-in, we offer a complete front suspension package that improves the suspension geometry but still uses the stock pickup points. More Info Here and Here. This is what is on the front of Chris aka Grabber GT's Maverick. And on the TCP race car which has been a dominant force in the California vintage racing scene for over a decade. Or, if you're willing to go more in depth, you can install a front crossmember from the Chassisworks side like the Viper Maverick. This is a completely clean sheet design, not yet another rehash of a Mustang II. Check out details here: http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_library_7160.html Then pair either system with our Canted 4-bar back half here: http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1559-canted-tubular-pivot-ball-4-link-rear-clip-4x2-frame-rails.aspx Just a few suggestions. Check out the links and post up if you have any questions. ~Carl aka the web guy
I would go with Chris Alston chassis works. Check out my build in my signature . I'm going for pro touring / autocross. Go big or go home and the guys at Alston are the real deal. Their stuff is new technology and not relying on old geometry like mustang 2 or other guys who advertise ifs stuff. Tcp and Chris Alston only way to go. .
Maybe TCP can provide us with a link to the G Machine cross members, with some dimensions? I called and asked, and got the blow off.
Hi Dave, THIS LINK has data sheets, install guides, and dimensions. The crossmember in the pic above is 28" wide which yields a 55" hub width. We build them to whatever width the customer needs with a rack to match. There is a worksheet to figure out what best fits your application here: http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_worksheets.html Sorry you got the blow off, musta been lunch time. ~Carl
