final pieces of brake swap

Discussion in 'Technical' started by chase259, May 24, 2014.

  1. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

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    Exactly. :yup: If the rotor wiggles at all, you have to tighten the preload on the wheel bearings. This play/movement could be what's causing the rotor to touch the caliper bracket. ???
     
  2. chase259

    chase259 Member

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    It very we'll could be, now what is the reload? That nut at the end?
     
  3. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

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    Yep, preload is the amount of "load" you place on the bearings. Both the inner and outer bearings are tapered and face each other. As you tighten the big nut on the spindle, you force the tapered bearings into the races. I typically rotate the rotor counter c-clockwise while slowly tightening the nut. When you feel the rotor start to drag, back off the nut about an 1/8th of a turn and then place your keeper and cotter pin in. Be careful to not have the bearing too tight, either...they will heat up and destroy themselves, not to mention make a lot of noise. I'm sure there's YouTube videos somewhere on doing this, if you need to have a better look. Did you replace the races in the rotor, or pack the wheel bearings before installing them? An easy way to get the seal out without destroying it is to remove the nut, washer, and outer bearing. Then reinstall just the nut and then grab the rotor at ( and 3 o'clock and pull straight out. The inner race of the inner bearing will catch on the nut and the back of the bearing will evenly push the seal out off the back of the rotor.

    Good Luck!
     
  4. chase259

    chase259 Member

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    Okay so everything is hooked up and I took it for a test drive (first time ever!!! :)) but the brakes have to be pumped a few times before I get any breaking...I have all new parts except, the proportioning block and the hard lines..., I bleed the whole system twice and still nothing... I don't understand what is going on?
     
  5. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    If your rotors are still loose on the spindle...The rotor flopping around will push the piston in on the calipers...This will cause you to have to pump the pedal to take up the slack and get a pedal/brakeing ability...You did preload the bearings right???
     
  6. chase259

    chase259 Member

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    Rotors are all good now I replaced both front and rear bearings so it's not a problem anymore it's strictly something with the brake system
     
  7. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    You put 4 wheel disc brakes on the car??? If not...Are the rear shoes adjusted up properly? You may still have air in the lines...A bad master cyl...A caliper hanging up on its mount...A caliper with a sticky piston...Did you use the proper brake fluid for your type of system/components???
     
  8. chase259

    chase259 Member

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    Front disc rear drums, proper fluid, the rear are damn close to perfect, and everything is brand new up front and nothing is sticking...it must be air
     
  9. lanman73

    lanman73 Member

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    I believe the calipers will fit either side but are not the same. Make sure the bleeder valve is at the top on both sides or you'll never get all of the air out.
     

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