Hey again guys. Recently my brakes started acting a little funny. I have front disc rear drum. They will bring me to a stop just fine, but if I'm sitting stopped sometimes or I'm not *firmly* applying brakes (as if i were trying to slow down instead of stop) the pedal slowly/gradually drops to the floor and I lose brakes. If I then let off the pedal and apply brakes again its all fine and dandy. I can actually make myself lose brakes on purpose by slightly letting off the pedal and gently re-applying back and forth a few times, and the pedal will gradually drop to the floor (weird right?) If it makes a difference I just replaced my front pads and rotors and my fluid level is normal. My dad says it sounds like my master cylinder is leaky and needs to be replaced. You guys have any other thoughts? Also, any recommendations on a master cylinder? I've heard a 1990 Ranger one works well on our cars, or should I just get what my parts store has in their system for my car? Thanks guys
My master cylinder was doing something similar when I first bought my car. Once I decided to replace it, and I got the old one out, I discovered it was leaking out the rear seal and running down the inside firewall. These are cheap and usually available through e-Bay or RockAuto if you're looking at stock ones. Just make sure to bench-bleed it before you install it. A Ranger master cylinder will require new fittings on your hardlines at the master cylinder.
Got a new one and attempted to install it today... I got as far as removing the two bolts and two lines from the old one. The push rod seemed to be attached to the inside of the mc somehow. I pulled the rubber boot off and still could not for the life of me see anything connecting the two (it would have to be inside the hole, but this doesn't seem possible). I pulled as hard as my 200 pound self could pull and it wouldn't come out. Whats the deal here guys? anybody know what im missing? i attached a pic of how far I got this morning, as well as the hole in the new one. take a look.
You will need to disconnect the rod from the brake pedal under the dash. Just pull the clip and slide it off the shaft on the brake lever. The brake light switch will also come with it. If the new cylinder came with a new rod you can use it but make sure it has the same dimensions as the old one. There is a spring clip on the end of the rod that locks into the M/C. You may have to put the old one in a vice to get the rod out.
In case anyone stumbles upon this thread with a similar problem, Im gonna say a few things that helped solve it for me. When I went to get a replacement master cylinder, the guy at the parts store asked me if I had power or manual brakes. I didn't know (and hadn't gotten the old one off my car yet), so I assumed I had power brakes. This one *did not* come with a push rod. When I got home I pulled the old one off and tried in vain to pull the push rod out. I then spent 1.5 hours taking apart and cutting through metal to get the push rod out. After bench bleeding the new one and all that cutting work, I came to find out the rubber boot didn't fit right and the brake line fittings were completely the wrong size. I went back to my parts store and got the "Manual brakes" one, which had the same rubber boot, same brake line fitting holes, and an attached push rod. It went right in like it should. Last thing: even if you bench bleed, you're likely to get some air in your lines; I did, and when I tested my brakes it went straight to the floor even after 20 pumps. But I came back out the next morning to take her to the mechanic, and I had full brakes. So give it a night for the air to possibly seep up to the master cylinder and out. The big moral of the story is to *BRING YOUR OLD PART IN WITH YOU!* and make sure you get the right replacement. and thank you guys for your help on this one too
Been there! Done that! Got the greasy T-Shirt to prove it!!!! Glad to hear your up and running again!!!
