Couple weeks ago i ran at the 2 day event here we have locally i ended up coming in second place (slicks spun on rims terribly in final race) i ordered beadlocks for them now. I ran 11.50's right off the trailer and that's all i could run in my class anyways due to no cage yet, so i dialed in for a 11.60 and kept running it and hitting it. anyways onto my suspension questions, my car right now is all stock suspension, i will be ordering calvert racing mono leafs, not sure if +1's yet or stock height, as well as the cal-tracs and front drag shocks. when it comes to the front what should i use for front springs? also curious where to get roller perches from & what about rear shocks...? the car is a full interior street car and will be adding a cage with removable door bars and hopefully dip into the mid to high 10's. thanks!
get the caltracs rear shocks also. the open tracker roller perches are really nice. also their roller control arm kit, strut rods, and lower control arms are nice. this will get rid of any bind in the front end. i dont have much suggestion for front springs. i have some fox mustang drag front springs that im planning on trying but i dont know how well they will work.
I didn't realize they made rear shocks, i never seen them listed there..ill go have a look at those for sure...once i get a list of everything needed for the front, i really hope it doesn't add to a crazy amount, or else i'll opt out on the items for now and maybe pick-up a R&C kit.
look at open tracker, daze cars, and maier racing. they all have kits that are diy to rollerize or stiffen the front suspension stuff. for instance the roller perches are around $200 but the kit is only around $35. the theory is to get rid of points of movement that can bind or move in an unpredictable way. this will keep the car going straight and will react predictably every time.
I have AFCO 175s in mine w/ a 351 iron hd mtr,top ldr 4 spd & blow proof bell housing.Car is gutted,race only,sits about right & previous owner said they worked great(I have not had the car to the trk yet).
Thanks guys. Picking more parts up today for the comet... Then driving 2 hours to get an intake for the chevelle lol. Going to check out that kit. Especially if it's only 350, seems like a decent deal to me. I was watching a few vids lastnight of my car leaving the line.. It actually looked like VERY little weight transfer. Looked awkward as it left the line. Seems odd they would also use "rancho" shocks from the rear instead of having te Calvert racing branded ones. But whatever works will be fine for me
calvert is now labeling the rancho shocks as calvert shocks. they are a great inexpensive option for a adjustable shock. i suspect calvert has rancho build them to their own specifications. also calvert is very helpful with tech advice on tuning the suspension system. if you give them a call im sure they can help you maximize your combination.
I run landrum 200 rate drag race coils with koni sp1 front shocks, I dont have roller perches but would be nice, dont think you need anything else in the front, i run 10.40s you can get as crazy as you can afford, but NHRA stock eliminator cars run in the 9's with sock suspensions without problems , so figure out what you can afford and how much you want to modify the car from stock
Just bought my caltracks. I am reworking the rear end and springs, cleaning and painting the underneath before reinstalling everything. The guys at Calvert racing are great. Very knowledgeable folks. If you go with the racing shock. Go with the lower plate that has a bolt instead of the hole for the factory spade style shock. They can send them with the caltracks instead of the OEM style spring plate. The guys at Calvert recommended the different plate, due to the fact that most racing shocks have a bolt connection at the top and bottom. (I did not know this) Not like the factory maverick shock. Which has the bolt at the top and a spade at the bottom.
