Well i plan on dipping into the 10's next spring (unless the weight of the cage keeps me at 11.0, either way i'll be safer.) so it's time for a cage..I'll be ordering a pre-bent package, looking into the art morrison set-up right now, but my question is since this is a street car with brand new interior, how do i cut the carpet to make it look decent when tieing into the subframes. pictures would also help if anyone has some. I think ill be doing the 8 point with removable door bars.
I cut a slit in line with the bar from the nearest edge. Then I trimmed around the bar itself. I was very anal about wanting it to look like the carpeting belonged and it turned out really well. The slit lines up perfectly and you don't even notice it. The only thing that you need to be careful of is not to 'snag' the loops while you are cutting it. The carpeting can unravel causing it to look bad. But if you are careful, use a sharp knife or fresh blade you should be good.
Cage isn't required till you dip in the 9's but still is a good ideal now if you plan on going that fast in the future, otherwise a Bar will be lighter.
Frank (franktf) did a beautiful job incorporating his stock interior with a cage. http://www.mmb.maverick.to/threads/my-72-comet-build.91278/page-34#post-1027825 I'm sure he's not the only person on here who has done this, but everything he does is top-notch and very clean, IMHO!
The car isn't as dirty as these pictures would lead you to believe...the flash just seems to amplify everything.
A cage wouldn't really be safe for a street car But like mentioned cage isn't required for your eta goal.. A 5 point rollbar will work for 10s
I set the bars really wide on the back to try and hide them behind the pillars. You will also note that the main hoop is hidden behind the pillar and the front bars are as close as I could get them without cutting the dash. If I were to do it over again, I would have cut the dash. The main hoop has the pads right on the front eyelet of the springs. The 'd' bars go down and connect into the subframe connectors. The seat is mounted on a loop connected to the cage (so I am not going to be separated from the cage in an accident). The only problem with this cage I made is that my stupid legs are too short and technically my seat isn't far enough back. But I don't think I will have problems with that. Being that it's a cage it should be fine. Anyhow the rear bars attach to 6 inch x 1/4 inch plates behind the wheel wells. Some circle track buddies and I built this ourselves in a weekend.
Very nice job on the carpet Tony, that's how i'd like mine to look..i wonder if i could use the heat together patch for the backside of the carpet like they use in houses to mend seams in carpet to make it look like a solid piece again (I'm an electrician i don't do floor's so im not sure lol) I'll go have a look at frank's post and see how his looks.. @Rick i Don't plan on going any faster than mid-high 10's with this car, i will be building a Turbo LS T/A for that once i'm done my brothers MK4 Supra...so maybe it will be better to go with a 5point, cost wise as well. was just having a look..can't really find any good pics of a legal 5point roll bar, trying to see what ill be getting.
Thanks. I tried using adhesive on the rear side (not the heat activated stuff I should have used), but I pull up the carpet a lot (I have been installing electronic fuel injection) and I have been routing wires under the carpet. The computer is actually under the passenger seat (that's why you don't see it in there right now) and the wires are running in every direction from that. So if I did something more permanent than a pressure sensitive adhesive it would be an issue. I might try that once I have the bugs out of the current system.
Anyone got pics of a 5 point cage? Not sure exactly where that 5th point should be, all I can find it 4-6-8-10-12 point kits.
does someone have a picture when they run the back bars thru the rear seats......where it mounts to frame ??? thanks
