I've been having a problem with my 73 Maverick 302 overheating for some time now. When it first happened, it was majorly overheating and I was not sure the main cause. I replaced the water pump, hoses and installed a new radiator. Flushed the system out like 5-6 times due to the rusty crud that was in the system. Still continues to overheat to the point of me having to shut it off before damaging something. I took the thermostat out and checked the circulation and there was none what-so-ever. I'm wondering if the water ports in the block could be stopped up or at the very least, restricted big time. I'm having the heads re-surfaced shortly and wanted to know if there's a way to clean out the water ports in the block while the heads are off? I want to make sure there is absolutely no restriction or blockage before installing the heads, new water pump and new aluminum radiator. I'm trying to save some $$$ here rather than buying a remanufactured short block. I'd rather keep the numbers matching, ya know? Thanks.
I doubt the block is completely stopped up. If you already have the heads off you can look into the water jackets to see if they're clear. Ford didn't have matching engine and trans numbers, swap it for a roller motor.
did you flush the heater core at the same time? if not it's possible the crud in the heater core stopped up the new radiator. when you say"flushed"...did you use a chemical flush or just a water hose?
I've always knocked the core(freeze) plugs out on older engines and give the block a good flushing with high pressure water, of course that's kinda tough to do on a installed engine...
I drove the Maverick for about 2 years after I bought it and never had an issue of overheating. I tried flushing it out with water and radiator flush. I did notice when replacing the radiator that the old radiator I removed was almost half full of some type of sludge and weighed quite a bit more than the replacement. The same crud was in the lower radiator hose as well. I'm thinking of going ahead with the short block just to be sure. Oh btw, the heater core isn't connected. Another task yet to tackle.
I think this may be the best remedy, esp., if your lookin for reliability and don't know history of the engine B4 uyou got the car.
I have also flushed the engine while the head was off by removing the freeze plugs. But...this was on a 6 cyl. It was full or core sand...so look at yours once the heads are off. Actually....part of the VIN is stamped into the block and trans...so in a way....they can be "numbers matching".
If block or trans has the partial original VIN, it is absolutely numbers matching, no ifs ands or butts... In these cars it probably doesn't make a big difference but on a high $$$$$ car it's always worth more with original drive train... Mine was matching numbers till I swapped the smogger 302 for a 5.0... For those who have never seen a VIN stamp on a 302, on pad at rear of intake... And here's the thread I started on determining if the various components are original by their date... http://mmb.maverick.to/threads/sleuthing-your-orig-302-engine.94875/#post-969282
Before you go to the expense and labor of pulling the heads or replacing a short block I would find a shop that has the capability to perform a power flush on the entire system. If you should decide to have this procedure performed, be sure to ask questions about what equipment they use to do this job. Power flush equipment is not a garden hose. Make sure you are comfortable with their answer. Any shop worth doing this service will want to double check your diagnosis to ensure you haven't overlooked anything.
I am glad to see that comment! I was really sweating a value loss if I did, so I've been contemplating how to make it more fun with the old motor. Good to know man, thanks.
But it's a WRONG answer... Beginning Jan 1 1968 was FEDERAL LAW that all engines & transmissions were stamped... Unless one illegally stamps the block/trans theirself there is only ONE matching numbers of each... Other mfgr' were stamping engines with a code that was for a particular model so were usually thousands of those engines, with Ford there is only ONE...
yeah... I kept reading and saw the responses... someone else mentioned value "for our cars" vs. higher end cars, so I just left my post...I still like the answer though... lol
Bottom line: These are Mavericks...and "numbers matching" means nothing. Change the motor if you wish.
I'm looking for the least expensive fix that eliminates the over heating issue. As far as the value of matching numbers vs non matching numbers, I'm not too concerned about that since I'm not thinking of selling my Maverick. I just want to make her happy again.
