Lexan window install

I just finished the window install. Since I still planning on driving on the street, I decided to keep the regulators. Here are the results

 

Ray
How much of the glass is lexan? Just the doors, or everything? Btw, very nice looking ride!

 

No more glass, I used 3/16" MR10 Lexan all around.

 

I must say, "Wow" that's amazing you did a great job. How much of a reduction did you end up getting.

 

great job I thought just the door windows were lexan.
as long as a cop doesnt tap on your windows youre good

 

If a cop is that close, I have bigger problems. It's gonna be different driving, I've had the windows tinted for the last 20 years. It was always hard to bracket race at night at poorly lit tracks. That and safety were the main factors for the swap, not really sure what the weight difference was.

 

Under NHRA rules you cannot have your windows darkly tinted.

 

Rays car is so fast is doesn't matter

 

I have never seen them enforce it though. I'm sure it wouldn't fly at a divisional or national event, but I've raced over a dozen different tracks and never had a tech guy say a word.

 

I've seen guys with triple tinted windows pull up to the bulb and you can't even tell if they have a helmet on, got to be hell at night but to each his own as long as they keep it straight.

 

Great looking job!

 

Wow awesome, you didnt have any problems with the curves on the lexan?

 

I would like to know this as well.

And what brand lexan?.. supplier?

 

The front and back windows are screwed in, so it takes the same shape. The door windows are better if they are fully up or down. I moved the guides all the way out, but the Lexan still wants to stay straight in the front.

I bought a 4x8 sheet of MR10 for $200 from a local supplier and cut it up myself.

 

Thanks for the reply, Ray. I know a guy who used to make windows for a few street racing cars in Seattle and he used a wooden form with metal clamps to prebend/form the lexan before putting it into a big double wide commercial oven at fairly low temps. Been too many years and I can't remember the temps used but is wasn't very hot.. maybe 200'ish or slightly more. It worked very well and I wish I could find something similar to do it myself but doubt I'll go that far.

I do know there are a few companies still around that will form them for you, I believe with similar techniques to the above, if you send in an original piece of glass that they can match the contours. I've also heard guys talking about guys who used a heat gun to achieve similar results.. but I'm a pessimist to the core and would have to see that to actually believe it. I do have a heat gun though.. and the test should be pretty simple to do. lol