I have read a few forums that people have problems with paint especially with heat in Cali, Arizona, etc. with the paint fading or even the plastic pieces so I don't know if it will with the leather either so I'm gonna tint my windows, first need to replace driver window, it was fine a month or two ago, when I finally rolled it back up, all of a sudden there's a s*** ton of scratches on it like something was rubbing against it when I rolled it up soooo I wasn't expecting that but I'm almost done grinding down the paint on the floor so I can get the front rusty floor pan out, and put in mustang floor pans, since I'm gonna install mustang seats I'm thinking of just installing the full floor pan for the front and just modify it cause I know it's wider, but I bought some rust converter and I was thinking of painting the floors with rust prevention so I can finally install some new black carpet to get rid of the old blue carpet, if anyone wants the old blue carpet (doubt it) it's yours, still looks nice just needs a good shampooing also I'm thinking on redoing the headliner visors in leather perhaps cause that's what it's made out of correct?
The originals weren't leather, But I would darn sure use it if you have the matching material! I have a thought for you on all the grinding you are doing on the floor pans. When you grind it, you can tend to gouge down a little in areas that make that 16 gauge metal a little thin in those spots and can really help get that rust hole started in the future. I am assuming you have a compressor, so I would think about getting hold of one of these: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-10...e=&network=g&gclid=CMmA9OXyqMcCFdcYgQod9VUFuQ The thing about soda blasting is that it will remove that surface rust without being so aggressive that it hurts some other unintended areas (more fragile ares). Also, you will probably find yourself soda blasting all the dash buttons, trim pieces, so forth and so on, once you see how nicely that soda (baking soda) actually works. really gives you a clean job. And about that rust prevention, I would advise that after you clean that floor up nicely, then follow up with: http://www.lizardskin.com/ and check out the results of heat reduction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUN61EzFaRA Aside from protecting that substrate from moisture, lizard skin deadens road noise. (Makes the interior when driving have that "new car sound". I have seen that sprayed from inside the trunk, and the complete inside, including the floor pans, tunnel, top, and firewall. The folks at FantomWorks (Norfolk, Va) - the ones on TV, have used it in some pretty high end restores. On thing, though, you may wish to add a thin layer of Dynamic Control Dynaliners just to make the carpet have an "even feel". Think of it as "carpet padding" with the added benefit of a little more proofing on the floor. And lastly...and this is just how I think, I would coat the inside of the doors with Lizard skin (Panels, windows and hardware stripped off first-of course). Mainly because you know how rain like to trickle down in there. Maybe even under the rocker panels. Basically, if you are doing the bump and grind on your old girl, ya wanna do her right! -Yeah...I know...I have a potty mouth...its a sickness...it's why my dad beat half my rear end off growing up (which is why I love comfy seats - I like thick seats and I cannot lie...).
Sweet that's within my budget too! I've look at eastwood a few days ago but never looked at soda blasting cause most of there equipment is high quality but high pricing as well, I am very familiar with soda blasting and as well for lizardskin, use to watch it on powerblock TV all the time on muscle car, Trucks!, and 4x4 and etc. thanks!! You have no idea how much time your gonna save me, and luckily I don't have an air compressor I bought the grinder for $20 at harbor freight on sale (plug in electric)
No problem. It only requires 90 PSI. http://www.lowes.com/pd_146781-4088...9215-769d-494a-99f8-e7815ac70b8d&kpid=3522750 All you have to do is skip taking the lady to a movie this Saturday! Lowe's...$49.99 and goes up to 120 PSI... and is digital so you aren't trying to stare at a tiny little arm on a gauge! Is it just me or is Kobalt taking over the tool industry! I find myself buying more an more tools because of them. And their tools are just as tough as higher end brands.
Alright sweet, definitely in my price range, and if the tools are American made then I would definitely used them as much because all the torque or wrenches I used on the bolts for the car have broke they either broke the head and left me holding the handle in one hand with the head still on the screw or broke the metal piece that comes into the socket, but it says made in China so I think that's the problem
Yeah, torque wrenches lose calibration pretty quickly. You you bought a Torque wrench over a year ago and spend less than $100, buy another. A lot of guys that use them often pretty much see it as an annual replacement. Higher dollar ones can be re-calibrated.
Yea, I only bought the one, but maybe soon I will have to buy another, and a question about mustangs, is the tunnel the same as the mavs? Also is there any threads with pics on how to install mustang floors, tried looking on here but all I found were how? Or where forums, no "okay this is how"
There are some pretty good guys in this forum. I did read a forum thread about using the mustang floor pans for the maverick. (requires some cutting and massaging). Have to make sure the tunnel is based on the AOD, I think, but am not too sure about that one. That video I sent, he sells the mustang floor pans. Check with one of the members named Tannersg1 He is using one of CJpony's mustang floor pans. Referencing : http://mmb.maverick.to/threads/1970-maverick-floor-pans.96844/
The palette of Ultraleather colors is astonishing. I do not have any experience with polyurethane fabrics. How do they hold shape and color vs the other alternatives? More durable? (Would seem to have more flexibility given that is a polyurethane fabric).
