How do I select the correct cam for my car?

Discussion in 'Parts Interchange' started by 70GreenMonster, Apr 3, 2015.

  1. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Just the fact that you're asking this question says everything. If you knew, then you wouldn't have to ask.
     
  2. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    What Frank says------I called Comp Cams when it was time to choose a cam for my Cleveland - they asked me a lot of questions about what all was done to the engine plus what my plans were for the engine - they even suggested a gear set for the rear to help me off of idle - very good folks to work with :1st:
     
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  3. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    And how will you ever know they picked the right cam for you unless you try something different and dyno both cams ?
     
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  4. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

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    Stock 5.0 h.o cam with 1.7rr's will work well for this.
     
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  5. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Now it's funny 71gold had issues with my recommendation of the F4TE roller, yet "likes" this. These two cams are so close in specs it ain't worth looking for one if you have the other "in hand" already. The intake lobes are 20* apart and .030 in lift. The exhaust sides are either the same or 10* different, depending on where you find the specs listed. The HO will yield a few more ponies on topend, the F4TE will give better emissions and mileage. Ford did more testing with their cams than any other two cam companies (or more) combined.
     
  6. maverick7072

    maverick7072 Member

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    green monster I would be interested to know what headers u plan to use with the P heads in your maverickcaus eive been looking for some that fit with out modifications
     
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  7. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    I have no idea yet. I just got a 250, kinda for free, so my V8 plans are on hold.
     
  8. quickshift

    quickshift Member

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    As been said more than once......stock HO roller with 1.7s. I run this setup in my 84 Cougar (88 HO engine) with a 700DP on a Edelbrock RPM and equal length shorties, T-5, and 4.10s. This gets me 24-26 MPG on a regular basis and still pulls sideways in second. Imagine what it will do in a Comet/Maverick.
     
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  9. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    you called that cam company yet...
     
  10. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    no, i unexpectedly got a running 250 inline six real cheap.
    I wont worry about a cam for my 302 until I have the block.
     
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  11. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    Further research has swayed my plan towards the latest 302 block I can find from a mustang or F150 with GT40 heads and a stock HO roller cam with the 1.7 rockers.
    From what I have read, that should be good for 230-250 bhp with a small 4 bbl on top of an Edelbrock performer dual plane intake, and much easier to find headers and easier to change plugs.

    This is just a plan and may change if some opportunity or relevant information presents itself.
     
  12. 70GreenMonster

    70GreenMonster Member

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    some opportunity presented itself....
    I just got a 99 Explorer 5.0 with 109K miles
    99 Explorer 302 3.jpg
    I have no plans to tear into the block with the mileage this low. We will probably throw an upper engine gasket set on it and clean it up and paint it.
    I won't replace the cam unless I don't like the way it drives with the cam it has now. I'm guessing the cam is stock.
    Automobile Catalog lists a 99 Explorer 302 at 4120 lbs. and 215 net hp and 19.2 lbs/hp
    Automobile Catalog list a 70 Maverick 200 at 2533 lbs and 120 gross hp and 28.1 lbs/hp

    I found this cool chart:
    http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/engineweights2.html

    A 200 straight six motor weighs 385 lbs
    A 302 V8 weighs 460 lbs
    75lbs difference

    2450 minus 385 (200 six) = 2065 lbs = weight of 70 Maverick 2 door Automatic without motor. no p/s or A/c 4 wheel manual drum brakes.
    2065 plus 460 (302 V8)= 2525

    2525 plus
    weights are guesses based on what we pulled off so far
    A/C system added plus 45 lbs
    power brake upgrade plus 40 lbs
    power steering system added plus 25 lbs
    heavier coil springs (actual shipping weight in catalog is more) plus 5 lbs
    2 bucket seats instead of 1 bench seat ?? plus 10 lbs?

    Just for argument's sake, I'll round off my estimate to 150 lbs of extra crap bolted to my car.

    that ends up being 2675 and 215 NET hp for a final magic number of...12.44 lbs/HP

    I know the hp will probably be a little less than that but we should be able to get close.
    I'll like it.
     
  13. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Congrats, picked up a '98 Sploder engine awhile back just to have as spare...

    A late 5.0 with aluminum intake, water pump and tube headers will weigh closer to 425-435Lb...

    The 460/470Lb(seen both) is a '60s figure is for a full cast iron engine, 5.0 blocks and cranks are lighter than older 302...
     
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  14. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    The weight difference between a 60's 302 block and the Explorer block is 12 lbs. Never compared the weights of the 28 vs the 50 oz cranks, but that's probably another 10 lbs. You will like the Explorer cam, it's even better run with 1.7 rockers. Works great with a smallish carb (like a 570 Street Avenger) I'd opt for a high rise dual plane (RPM or Stealth) though to run it on. There is no difference from idle to 1500 despite what the advertising says. I've run this combo in a 4 speed 89 Ranger with 3.73 gears and it was a pure pleasure to run around town in. Even with no overdrive, it would get 18 mpg on the highway in the 3500 lb truck.
     
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