Setting at .96v is OK but not really necessary, mostly a myth perpetuated by the 5.0 Mustang rags, not one I've seen could actually prove it increased performance in any way(and never made a increase in my T-Bird, it logged over 700 strip passes on a 5.0)... I believe Ford's spec is .6 to .9v... Anytime you adj the base idle setting the voltage changes...
I think I am just being impatient on idle, it was idling around 1200 for a while but I let it get nice and warm and started to idle around 800-900. Also verified TPS, its set at .91. Checked all over for vacuum leaks and none found. Don't jinx it.
Don't worry about it, assuming no damage(rust) to valve face or seat that causes valve to burn in future it'll be fine... Valve was stuck from setting, not from a mechanical failure... Once they broke free problem was solved, seen same probably half dozen times in past(yes with bent push rods)...
the other thing that can happen is the valve being stuck in the open position as the rocker arm cycles and tries to close the valve. The pushrods unload and ends unseat out of the lifters/rockers cup. Then as the rocker continues to cycle, it falls inboard of the rockers pushrod cup. This creates a much higher rocker ratio and/or simply side loads the pushrods until they turn to spaghetti. A few rounds of good beatings and the pushrods can also jump up on the lip of the roller lifter too. However it happened.. glad you're making headway on the cheap. PS. I'd also be running some heavy combustion chamber cleaners through that engine too. We used to pour trans fluid down the inlet till the engine died then let it sit overnight. Then put on your gas mask, start it back up, and use water to blow out the chunks and steam clean the lighter deposits right out the tail pipe. Water alone also works fairly well to steam clean but you need to be cautious of getting carried away with length of time doing it since it can cause light piston and ring scuffing as it washes the gas and cylinder bore oil residues away.
