Here is a quick list of what it took for me to perform the swap last month. I also included some things that helped me in the project. If you have any questions, just ask. I may have left something out, so if you see something missing, feel free to add to this thing. Country Hope this helps someone 200 I-6 to 302 V-8 SWAP LIST PARTS YOU WILL NEED 302 V-8 302 MAVERICK motor mounts 302 frame mounts V-8 Engine cross-member Double hump transmission cross-member V-8 Power steering bracket Longer Power Steering Hoses V-8 Alternator bracket V-8 Starter 250 I-6 or small block ford V-8 bell-housing 250 I-6 or 302 Maverick radiator (Although I got away with using the 200's radiator) Fan Shroud (not necessary, but unless you are using an electric fan it will be missed) V-8 Pulleys -Power steering/crankshaft/fan/water pump Front sump oil pan (Double or rear - sump pans won’t work without frame modifications) V-8 throttle cable (optional) V-8 wiring harness ( or just build one) V-8 kickdown linkage I-6 PARTS THAT CAN BE USED IN THE SWAP Throttle Cable Power Steering Pump Alternator C-4 transmission (any C-4 should work, as long as the bell-housing is changed to a V-8 bell-housing) SOME (HOPEFULLY) HELPFUL ADVICE When doing this swap, you CAN, I repeat, CAN retain the stock 6 cylinder springs. In keeping the I-6 springs, you car will sit lower in the front. I kept the I-6 springs in mine, and have NOT noticed the handling to be that bad. I DO recommend, however, that you take the car and have it aligned. This is strictly left up to you. Another thing that I did, was use my stock 200 ci I-6 radiator in the swap. I did have it re-cored, (which I would recommend that you do) and it works fine. I used a 160 degree thermostat, and I cruise at anywhere from 150 - 190 degrees at 70 and 80, depending on the weather. If you want to run cooler, use a bigger radiator or have an aluminum radiator built. I have also used two different fan setups on this engine, a 16 inch electric fan, and the block-type straight fan off of my 200 I-6. Both worked fine. I have the electric fan on a toggle switch, so I can continue cooling the radiator after killing the car. I DO NOT use both fans at once. I just tested both of them. Personally, I like the electric fan better as it has a built-in shroud, and can continue to run after switching the car off. As far as the transmission goes, I got one from Auto Zone for $430.00 with a 15 month unlimited mile warranty. I would recommend buying one or having yours rebuilt instead of just bolting the I-6 C-4 right on in there. It probably won’t last. It will work though with the V-8 bell-housing. THIS REALLY CAN BE DONE !!! It has been said that you could not have long-tube headers and retain the automatic shifter on the column. It can be done. I did it. What I will say is that the stock shift rod will have to be bent to fit from the selector on the transmission itself to the column shift lever on the firewall. It will just be trial and error, but if you keep trying, you will eventually get the angles bent right to fit around and through the headers. One thing though, I had to manufacture a drop-bracket for part of the power steering (Bear with me, it is late and my mind is blank, - it looks like a shock lying on its side) because the shaft was rubbing on the header. I just cut a piece of iron and drilled two holes in it- one to bolt to the car, and the other to bolt to the power steering piece that was rubbing. This lowered the piece (sideways shock thing) about 1 ½ inches. Plenty to clear the header. This was basically all that it took to enable the use of headers with the column shift auto. Please keep in mind, that these things worked for me, and should work for you. If I left out any parts, just put ‘em on in there. If anyone else has some advise on this swap, feel free to add. I’m sure that I left something (s) out, but I hope that this will help some of you who are wondering what it would take to do the swap. Keep in mind though, this stuff ain’t just gonna jump right in there. Be prepared to spend a little time, and effort, if not some money to do it right. It’s worth it though. Hope this helps – Country
I'm currently doing body work but will be test fitting for the v8 swap soon. I also want to keep the column shift what headers did you use? How close are they to the ground?
I used Hooker 6901's. If the car is not lowered, you should have reasonable ground clearance. Some folks on the forum use Hedmans. Also pay attention to the port size on the header flange. Aftermarket heads with high flowing exhaust ports can be restricted with some of the headers out there. This assumes you are going with a 302 based engine.
Headers and column shift create a problem and if your car is a power steering car you will need a drop bracket for the steering ram arm. The best way to keep the column shift is by using a cable from a Granada unless you are using the Hedman shorty headers 88400 If you do a search for headers and column shift you will find the reasons why I say this
