Yeah I have seen that. I ordered early last week. Eta of 4/11 at summit. Saw Friday jegs had them in stock was gunna switch places but now I checked jegs and it says 4/20. Glad I didn't switch
Fuel sump is mounted under the windshield washer reservoir. I put the lower bracket right down on the top of the frame rail, if you can call it that on a unibody car. A portion of the sump actually sits right on the rail, put a piece of foam weather strip there for the sump to sit on. Top bracket needed some angled spacers to align with the bottom bracket. Spent a good amount of time tweaking the brackets until the sump was level. Don't know how picky you really have to be in that regard. Have to re-clock my Carter fuel pump to get the inlet and outlet to where I need them to be. Was a good time to clean up my yucky washer reservoir, too.
Put a 3/8" hose barb in my new-to-me fuel fill pipe (thanks Craig!). Ran 3/8" aluminum tubing from the fuel command center vent nipple back to the fill pipe. Plumbed the fuel lines between the mechanical pump, fuel command center, and throttle body. After that I just needed to plug in the O2 and coolant temp sensors and connect 4 wires.
Lots of "under hood" plumbing associate w/ this setup. I wud have to have a tank mount sump if I eventually go to that type system w/ PS and AC in that spot. Seems like somewhat of a waiting list now by what I am reading on the forums. Nice job setting it up and posting pictures.
First test drive was exciting. After letting the engine warm up to operating temperature we went for a little jaunt. After I started driving the engine wouldn't idle below 2500 rpm! So I'm going down the road in 3rd gear not even touching the gas pedal and with my foot on the brake just so I wouldn't exceed the 40 mph speed limit. LOL. It's Saturday so FiTech's tech department isn't in. Did some research on line and it seems a lot of people have an initial issue with their idle being too slow, my problem was just the opposite. They solve it by adjusting the throttle blades on the throttle body. There are separate adjusting screws for the front and rear blades. I backed each screw out 1/2 turn and went for another drive. Much better. The idle doesn't yet drop down quick but it does go down to the programmed idle speed after a few seconds. Hopefully more self-learning will take care of that. At least now I have to actually push on the gas pedal to go. I can see on the electronic display the thing is still learning, making adjustments to the fuel trim. I only have about 20 miles on it, some say you have to go maybe 200 miles before it's completely dialed itself in. It is responsive and pulls like gang busters, I guess because all four barrels work simultaneously.
Yeah, if I hadn't just put a new gas tank in last year I might have considered getting a tank with a pump. I had decided that I didn't want an external high pressure pump mounted on the frame. And I do like the idea that if the EFI takes a $h1t I can put a carb back on just by running a hose to the mechanical pump that's still there.
when I took the Holley EFI off, I just turned the fuel reg. down to 6 PSI on the in tank pump, put the Holley 670 back on and we went to Detroit the next day......
I've had 3 different ones. I still have the Atomic on and love it. I joke with the Guys when I stop by the shop..."I hope it remembers what I just taught it"... ...LOL
I got a email on my birthday Friday that my efi shipped. I'm beyond excited to install. I'm a younger guy with not alot of carb experience so my car has never ran great. Should be at my house Tuesday
Mr. Daniels, Sounds to me like a large vacuum leak, or the IAC (basically an ecm controlled vacuum leak)is stuck wide open. I would take the IAC off and stick my thumb over the hole and have somebody start the vehicle, if it still idles very high, You have a vacuum leak. If you do not either it is defective or for what ever reason has decided to start high(which is rare from what i know for these systems) If after an hour of running and driving and there is no improvement, again bad IAC or signal to IAC(Wiring or ecm) A side not try tapping on the iac with a small hammer(light taps about 3 or 4 times) Just like a starter or fuel pump if stuck it may work fine after that "shock"
The IAC and ECM are contained within the throttle body. As I mentioned, closing the throttle blades made a big difference. The controller displays IAC steps and I'm told I need to adjust the throttle blades to get the IAC steps between 6 and 10. Just some more fiddling to do.
MacD Dumb question is your oxygen sensor plug in ????? My son's run like crap bad idle rich bad bad rich .
Yep, it doesn't run rich or lean. I can see the AFR on the display and the fuel trim being adjusted. It was just running fast and I think I have that solved.
More adjusting of the throttle blades today. Pretty much idles like it should, just hangs every once in awhile. Went for a drive, ran very well with the exception of stalling out twice at stop signs. Started right up ok. Acted like it was gonna stall a third time but then the rpms came up to normal. I guess it's learning. Stopped at a friend's house who's in the middle of putting a supercharged 347 in his '68 Mustang. When I left and pulled out of his driveway I floored it, the car went sideways and I was facing his house, had to get out of it. LOL Thing pulls like a freight train at WOT.