1973 ford maverick gas tank

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by russellgaspard, Nov 30, 2015.

  1. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    Im trying to replace my tank because my old one has rust and im having a problem finding a tank and parts. I can only find the 1976 fuel tank and im not sure if its the same size. I think the one I have is 10 gallons and the 1976 is a 19 gallon tank. Does anyone know where I can get a 1973 tank and neck? Also the gaskets for the neck and the other gaskets for the tank?
     
  2. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    The 1976 tank will FIT, but is slightly different than your 1973 tank. A lot has been written on the subject on the message board. If it was me, I would get your current tank cleaned, repaired, and sealed.
     
  3. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    I know it will fit but Ill have to buy a new neck and gaskets and vapor valve. It will cost about 300 or more for all new stuff. I wish I could find one the same as I have and then just reuse all the stuff I have for this one. Do you know anywhere or anyone who wants to sell one? Also if I get it cleaned, repaired, and sealed would I be able to do that myself or would I have to bring it somewhere? Also how much does it generally cost to get that done?
     
  4. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    You can reuse your neck with the 1976 tank. Pretty sure you can reuse the neck gasket/seal as well.

    You could do it all yourself. Just Google it. One can get a kit from POR-15 that will do it. I would say if you took it somewhere, expect to spend $100 to $150. Contact a local radiator shop for this service.
     
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  5. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    Thank you! Ill do that!
     
  6. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I pulled my tank out, and emptied the last (gallon?) of gas out. Some chunks of rust came out too, but the tank doesnt leak. There is a radiator shop that will put it in their detergent tank for 45 bucks, but it will not get rid of rust. I plan to have it done, and pour a gallon or so of white vinegar into it while it lays flat. I figure the rust should be on the bottom??? I am not exactly sure how to de-rust it. The guy at the radiator shop said if I used acid, it would have to be "sealed." Can I trust a sealer to have permanent adhesion to the inside of my tank?? It sounds crazy to me.
     
  7. JeffSt73Grabber

    JeffSt73Grabber Member

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  8. NCFatBoy

    NCFatBoy Member

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    There may be rust on the bottom that settled, but I would think the rust would be above the fuel level where the moisture (in the air) would be. Others here probably know for sure.
     
  9. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    That would make more sense. I was thinking the water would be on the bottom under the gas, but it probably is more of a condensation issue. Yuk.
     
  10. NCFatBoy

    NCFatBoy Member

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    I was told mine has a Mustang fuel tank in it. Haven't confirmed it, but it has an electric fuel pump at the tank and an impact reset switch in the trunk (to shut off the fuel pump in an accident).
     
  11. NCFatBoy

    NCFatBoy Member

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    Yeah, the water would be on the bottom if there was water in the tank, but half a tank of fuel will allow moisture in the air in the tank to condensate. If it sits, it'll rust. Harley winterizing in cold climates includes a full tank of fuel to keep condensation in the cold months to a minimum. That and Stabil.
     
  12. NCFatBoy

    NCFatBoy Member

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    I just remember a guy down the street from me when I was a kid had a 67 Stingray 427 that the gas cap (on top of the trunk) leaked. He couldn't get his elbow past the opening, I sopped out all the water for him...... he'd already siphoned the fuel out.... just wanted to get the last of the water out.... I was a skinny youngster....
     
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  13. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    mine has these plus a drain plug and the filler tube is centered, it's a Maverick tank...:yup:
     
  14. fastfords

    fastfords Member

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    I just did the tank in my sprint,m por-15 has a great kit to clean and seal the tank. If you get the cleaner, the surface prep, and then the sealer it should cost about $150.00 (thats what it cost me). From start to finish it took about 3 days, 1 day to pull, clean and prep, and 2 days to seal and replace. I used a NO HEAT blower to expedite the curing of the sealer. My tank should be good for another 45 years. Unless you have rust through I would clean and reseal.
    One more thing, as Frank kinda mentioned it is a good idea to put in a drain plug while the tank is out and cleaned.
     

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