I am currently pulling a C4 from my wrecked Maverick and with the inspection cover and torque converter nuts off, it is as Frank stated. The converter has some slop in it and is able to be pushed at least an 1/8 inch back from the flexplate.
I have not, but before I tightened the bell housing, I was finally able to push on the TC stud and move it towards the tranny slightly with my fingers, but, if I undestand correctly, I should crawl back under there and loosen all my TC bolts and make sure it still has play, indicating it is seated in the pump correctly?
If it isn't binding it's likely fine... If converter isn't fully seated it'll be all but locked up, very noticeable when turning engine to install converter nuts...
I would check after at least one bellhousing bolt is snug. I wiggle the converter stud as I snug the bellhousing bolts.
Ok, here is my latest attempt. I know the flex plate is the right one, 157 tooth, 50 oz. The TC is seated right, 3 clicks. I bought shorter bell housing bolts and know they will go all the way in, thinking the ones I previously used were too long. I put the tranny back on and the same old problem happened. I have a 3/8 inch gap and the bell housing bolts will tighten no more. What about this: the TC is 12", about the biggest you can get. Might it be too big? Do I need to get a smaller one? I cannot tell, but wonder if it tightens up against the bell housing where I cannot see as I tighten the bolts down?
with a bolt snug, was the converter still wiggable? when seated, was the converter "inside" the lip on the bellhousing? put it up once without the converter.
If the converter size were problem it would already be dragging inside bell before trans was installed... It's supposed to pull forward slightly when bolted to flexplate...
If torque converter is too big there should be some witness marks left on it from where it is hitting bellhousing, wonder if the pump drive shaft is your issue keeping converter from going back all the way. Try taking shaft out and putting converter in and see how much it slides in without it.
I fought this problem one time and it ended up being the torque converter was built wrong internally and the height of the components inside it were too tall, had it cut apart and they found the problem and fixed it. But I could get mine in except the last 1/16 of an inch
I know I'm coming in late on this but, I just had a similar issue with mine. My problem was the guide pins on the back of the engine. The holes in the bell were a little corroded and the pins would not fully seat. I cleaned out the holes and the tranny and engine slid together perfectly. Just something to check! Chuck
I have set of 4 studs that I made to help installing transmission, once I get it on those you dont have to use the bolts to suck it up just wiggle tranny and it slides into place. Helps some if motor is facing down hill in the back so converter does not slide forward while installing. Holes being corroded is a new one on me but I can see how that would be an issue, it would be nice if it was that simple.
So far... I took the TC out and put the bell housing up against the block. It mated up great, no problems, I could almost hand turn the bolts. So it is either the TC has not been seating like it should... or the pump drive shaft. Previously, I did notice that the TC was up against the flex plate, could go no further and would not turn. This tranny was recently rebuilt by a local reputable company... so my guess it may be the TC. More to come.
If your transmission is a 71 or newer, it should have the 24/26 spline input shaft, 24 in tranny and 26 in converter. I wonder if that is a 24 spline converter, or you have a 24/24 shaft?
With the converter sitting in bellhousing and a straight edge ran across the face of the bellhousing how much room is there to the converter then take the drive shaft out and reinstall converter and see if there is any difference. You pretty much have it narrowed down to the converter