Distributor, Ignition Coil and Electric Choke wiring question

I just installed a new performer intake, carb, flame thrower ignition coil and distributor and headers. I started this like six months ago...the Dougs headers didn't fit, took forever for the speed shop to get Doug Throley headers in.

So...I wired the ground for the carb, coil and distributor to the ground on the Alternator. I also used the 12 v source at the top of the alternator to power the distributor and carb (black cap on top of alternator). For the coil, I used the existing 12v source coming from the distributor modulator valve.

Other notes...I capped the PVS and EGR valves.

I start the car and it just cranks. I can see gas in the fuel filter, but no spark.

I check the voltage and I have 12 volts to everything.

Any ideas on what could be wrong...looking at the manual for the car, it uses the alt power source to power the car in later models.

Any help is appreciated.

Going to double check all the wiring again tonight...and charge the battery back up.

 

do you have voltage when cranking, not just with the key on?

 

I have no idea what a distributor modulator valve is, in over 50 years of working on cars first time I've heard the term...

 

Why does the carb need a ground? Never heard of that - do you have one of the new TB -EFI setups? Like Tom, I never heard of a dizzy modulator.

 

Try mimicking this setup. Tons of other schematics for the old Ford systems out in netland too.

http://diagram.dollyrama.com/ford-voltage-regulator-wiring-diagram/

 

71Gold, I checked with a multi-meter and I have 12v when not cranking.

Tom, the distributor modulator (may have got the name wrong) is the wiring harness that hooks to the ignition coil, AC throttle regulator and well as another device that has a few hoses coming off it...it's on the drivers side of the car.

Groberts...this helps a ton. Thanks.

I'll give it a shot when I get home from work today.

 

see what you have when you are cranking the engine.

 

Everything has 12v going to it. Just for the heck of it, moved the carb ground to itself and grounded the distributor to the hold down bolt...like the instructions for both said. Also moved the hot wire for all three to the 12v wire that the original ignition coil was connected to.... still nothing.

Hooked up a timing like and bump starter...no spark.

I did burn the heck out of my finger by touching the ignition coil.... it was super hot. Is this a sign that it's bad? I wonder if I fried the coil by having it hooked up to the positive post on the alternator as this signal is on constantly? Nothing smelled like it burnt...

Scratching my head on what the issue could be.

 

id go ahead and get a new coil. not familiar with a flame thrower distributor but if it has points id suspect them dead as well. seems like you had the coil hot wired for (?) a long time.

 

AFAIK the coil and ignitor should only be wired to the switched power(ign sw)... Wiring it to a constant hot is likely sure death of coil and/or ignitor...

Here are various configurations as applied to Mustang, will be no different when replacing a points system in our cars...

http://www.geocities.ws/a65ragtop/VM_FAQ/mechanical/pertronix_wiring.html

 

Yeah, I am sure that's what the issue is... taking them to get tested.

 

Had the coil and distributor tested...both came back fine. I wire everything back up, this time to the original ignition coil hot wire, I get 12 volts when the key is in accessory position. As soon as I connect an extending wire to go to the new ignition coil, it drops to 3.5 volts. I tried this without it connected to coil, still 3.5 volts. Just connecting another wire to the original ignition coil hot wire drops it from 12v to 3.5. Has anyone run into this?

 

Are you still using points in the distributor or did you change to an electronic system. (Petronix markets the Flamethrower coil I believe). If you are using points the dwell of the points could be off enough to keep the engine from firing).

 

The original feed to coil has a dropping resistor(wire actually), that's inside the underdash harness... It's always going to drop voltage depending on load, will be what you measure...

What you need to do is run another wire from output of ign switch(before it's connection to resistance wire) to your dist, look at those Mustang diagrams I linked to in a earlier post... You can use the original feed wire to trigger a relay(only, nothing else can be on this connection) that supplies voltage directly from battery...

 

Yeah, it's a Petronix coil and distributor.

Tom - I think you solved my riddle. I'll try that.