Will these fit our 1974 Comet with the 4.1L 250ci ? Are these similar to (or the same as) the ebay headers? Will we need any extra parts or gaskets? What about a port divider? Thanks in advance! https://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Design-Stainless-Exhaust-Polished/dp/B00NI73L76/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mercury|56&Model=Comet|719&Year=1974|1974&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
No idea but this is in the comments, there could be some differences between 200 & 250... One mentioned starter interference, the low mount position & larger bellhousing on 250 may be a problem...
Thanks for the input, Tom... Two of the seven reviewers stated that they fit on their Mavericks. So, I'm thinking they should be ok. I'm not thrilled that they don't come with mounting bolts and studs, though. I've seen some posts here mentioning the Clifford headers. But from what I remember, they cost a lot more. Maybe because they include everything??... I don't know. Our Comet is a father & son project (he's almost 16) and we're trying to keep mechanical costs down so we can put more resources into the body and paint. We're going to run dual Flowmasters with these headers, I'm thinking the 'ol Comet will wake up a bit in performance, not to mention that healthier exhaust note.
my best advice on that is to be damned sure you don't go above 2" dual pipes on such a small low revving motor. Mufflers can be larger but the front mid-pipe sections OD is critical. Otherwise you WILL lose low-rpm torque for higher rpm power while trying to gain cooler sounding decibels from a bigger set of pipes. Has nothing to do with "the motor needs a little backpressure", which is ALWAYS bad and you still won't have on this type of motor with 2" duals anyways, but everything to do with exhaust velocity. Velocity without restriction equals more torque production in this motors rev range where it matters most. Efficiency and mileage will also improve vs say a.. dual 2-1/4" - 2-1/2" setup. You would also gain more average torque with an h or x pipe.. or even y'd off to a single 2-1/2" pipe. Won't sound as rumbly and cammy.. but will still further improve average power and economy nonetheless.
I know it would probably be easier and more cost efficient to go with a single 2-1/2" pipe (with the "Y") rather than dual 2" pipes. So, in theory, the improvement in performance would be about the same either way? Dual exhaust would be nice (and preferred) but "easier and cheaper" is an attractive alternative if the HP gain is the same.
Y-pipe with single 2.5" pipe would be my first choice for this motor. Much easier fab work(less $$$) and less overall weight. People seem to forget about weight not just affecting performance(power to weight ratios) but also the stopping and turning of the car too. IOW, while a true dual system with well designed crossover could potentially make another few ft/lbs of torque(primarily from the reduced resistance of a second muffler).. the added exhaust weight would easily overshadow such minimalistic gains. Here's a chart to help you understand the huge area differences between various pipe sizes. You do have to factor in bend radii severity and other restrictions when sizing things up for any particular task but as you can clearly see the popular trend for oversized exhaust pipes can quickly start to ruin exhaust gas velocities. Especially true for smaller motors and why I adamantly recommend against dual 3" pipes on smaller CID street rpm oriented engines. people think that if a small jump up in pipe area gives a gain than more must be even better. The old Stroker McGurk syndrome strikes again. lol http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ Another thing that really helps these particular engines more than some others is the use of exhaust wrap on the headers. A bit spendy but it does 2 very important things. First it keeps heat in those likely already too big header primary pipes(1-3/8" would be closer to ideal sizing) which expands the gas volume a bit more and makes the pipe seem smaller in size than it really is.. which increases velocity in the best place possible(besides the heads exhaust port itself). Second is that it helps isolate a known hotspot with these particular "shared intake/exhaust flange" engine designs. Anything and everything you can do to cool these inductions down will pay bigger dividends in the power department. Creates less engine bay heat that can end up being sucked into the induction system too. Creates a hybrid power output somewhere between a cold motors power production compared to one that has become fully heat saturated. Only downside is the added potential for increased heat related cracks and rust. The stainless material eliminates much of that erosion issue but the thinner gauge of most stainless piping leaves you more susceptible to cracking. Might not be worth the added risk for some people when using cheaper off-shore parts like these. Personally speaking I trade power for durability all the time(which is generally what happens anyways when you move away from OEM parts) and would still do it with the simple plan to just replace them at these more affordable prices if anything eventually goes south.
https://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Stai...rd_wg=AVkNh&psc=1&refRID=HYSQADS5ZEV1Z5C9EKQ4 these are the same as the ebay headers i have that header installed on my 200ci maverick right now. the link above is the one i bought which is the same as in your link but its just 30 bucks cheaper. the problems i ran into were the bolts for the connecting pipes were too short, interference with a/c compressor (if you even have a/c), and some other minor changes like buying new exhaust bolts, new gasket (the one provided is very flimsy and will probably leak), and new exhaust. right now i have a new single exhaust 2.25 but only from the Y pipe to the rear axle with stock pipe and circular resonator next to the tank for now. one suggestion may be to use header wrap since they make some heat and after a bit of driving the polished chrome tarnishes. ill try to take a picture near the starter for you to see if you have room to clear it.
Do you have AC on the car? I know that Clifford had some that did and some that didn't fit AC cars. I had Clifford dual outlet for years. Dragged over every speed bump I came across. Micah
Thanks for all the great information! Our Comet doesn't have AC. Heck, it doesn't even have power steering or power brakes! So, would it be worth it to pay the extra $$ for the Clifford headers versus the Amazon/Ebay stainless headers? I don't mind getting the extra bolts and gasket if the Clifford headers are considered overpriced. I'm thinking the main cost difference might be that the Clifford headers use a thicker gauge of steel? But, if the general consensus is that the Clifford headers are worth the extra $$ then we will go that route. Keep in mind that this car is not a daily driver and will only be driven during the warmer months of the year. Also, about the port divider... is it necessary or helpful at all? Sorry if this is getting long winded. I just want to make the best "educated" decision and I'm a best-bang-for-your-buck kind of guy. No pun intended on my name.
i guess it depends on how invested you want to get with your inline 6. if you are planning to swap it out in a couple years id say get the cheap one, but investing in it get the clifford because they look to be way better constructed and engineered. the amazon headers stick out a bit where it looks like the cliffords hug the motor better. clifford also has specific headers for the 200s and 250s where the amazon ones are universal. look up finnigens garage on youtube, there is a couple videos of them putting a clifford inline 6 header on a amc hornet and it looks to fit well i never got a port divider but i didnt know about it when i installed my header. i think including everything, i spent about 350-400 buck on the project. and that is what the header alone costs from clifford. also i have factory a/c which definitely in the way, i had to make a temporary fix and space it away from the header and the hoses are a hassle. im going to change to a modern smaller compressor soon.
Have you checked out the headers here? The link below used to be the old classicinlines site before the owner passed away. Theirs will fit a 25o with the high mount starter. https://www.vintageinlines.com
I've actually checked out that site, and re-checked the Clifford headers. I called Clifford today and was told about doing the 6=8 upgrade with the headers + port divider and the Weber 2bbl carb + adapter set up all together. I'm seriously considering this... http://www.shop.cliffordperformance.net/Ford-200-68-Combination-68F200.htm
if you do take that step definitely post the results here because that would be interesting to know. Ive heard about probably needing a better cam to run a 2bbl effectively though so i never made the full jump to that.
I believe these are the exact same headers offered but TSK210 on Ebay that Mlover just installed. His thread was entitled Header Swap. MD
