351 into a 72 maverick grabbler

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by Slayer, Apr 25, 2017.

  1. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    What year 302/5.0 determines flexplate or flywheel balance, prior to '82 it's 28oz same as all 351, '82-up are 50oz...

    From '70 until end of V belt era most all passenger car alt and P/S brackets can be used... Harmonic balancer thickness varies, when using a late model engine a spacer under crank pulley is often required...

    The 200 radiator uses smaller radiator hoses, I wouldn't even consider it, or not using a shroud...

    The 200 uses a three bolt starter same as FE engines, they will work on small blocks, at least with std manifolds... vs the correct starter they clock a 1/8 turn or so counter clockwise, cable connection may give issues using headers...
     
  2. Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    I'm assuming at this point that it is a 6er. Lol
     
  3. Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    Im hoping to go electrical fan.
    Ps would be nice but not a must.
    I was planning to fork out 300 to 400 on a hard core radiator. ( Cooling is our friend )
    Most likely I'll need a front sump oil pan won't I? Man that's food info I appreciate your helpĀ”
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2017
  4. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Unless you modify chassis you'll definitely need a front sump pan, before Fox('78) & Panther('79) chassis everything was front sump...
     
  5. Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    Ok cool.
    My next question would be do these car have a engine cross member? Or does it have a belly bar? I keep hearing people say cross member and or belly bar? Excuses my ignorance.
     
  6. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    AFAIK same thing... There is no actual crossmember but there is a bolt-in belly bar...

    Here's mine laying under car when I was restoring the engine compartment...

    BTW the steering linkage sets exactly where a rear sump pan would fit...

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    That a pretty looking engine compartment you have there sir.

    So for this swap is there any reason that the belly bar would need to be changed out?
    I was worried this was gonna be like a subframe car or my last car - dodge dart 67.... To do a v8 swap from the slant 6 you had to swap the k member.

    The location of the steering link shows clearly why the engine would need a different oil pan.....

    I appreciate your help bud. I can assure you two things. I won't stop updating this post until the build is finished. I also plan to have the car on the road with in the next month or so..... I don't plan to drag this out.
    Once again I appreciate you bud.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2017
  8. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Thank you!! I wimped out in the middle of resto and let it set for probably six months before completing the engine install...

    I see you confusion now, the 6cyl cars did not come with the bar, V8 item only... I don't know of any differences between years...
     
  9. Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    So on non v8 cars is the option to add the belly bar there? I believe the car has one in place already. I can't remember exactly but I thought I seen one.
    I was to busy checking for rust....
    Here in Oklahoma we have ( my experiences finding classic cars is ) either there completely rusted to death - or - they have no title and or tag- or they want a crazy price for them.... When I seen this one had a good tag and title - I turned my attention to rust.... There was none the rest I figured would fall in place.
     
  10. COMETIZED

    COMETIZED Member

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    Hi Slayer:
    JMO .. I've done both the 351 swap and the 347 .. and BY FAR .. the 347 swap was simpler , less expensive ,
    and had Power to Spare . Withe the 302 block there are Headers available , the block FITS in the engine compartment WITHOUT major surgery , and the power yield was great . The 347 dyno'd at 380 hp .. and the 408 swap in another car was about 490 . The 351 swap entailed removing the shock towers .. major surgery on the tunnel to accept a Tremec 5 speed .. had to raise the floor 2-1/2" inches , installed a better hydraulic clutch setup , and many other details that goes with that kind of swap. Love the cars .. both of them .. each has their OWN personality and power bands. I personally would go with the block with the LESSER alterations to your car. In BOTH setups I would recommend installing Sub Frame Connectors to avoid twisting things underneath . I ' notched ' the shock towers for the 347 swap just enough to make it easier to change plugs . If your towers are removed you're way ahead. JMO like I said.
    Cometized
    (Chip)
     
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  11. cyclonewill

    cyclonewill Member

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    Last edited: Apr 28, 2017
  12. cyclonewill

    cyclonewill Member

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    I pulled a 302/c4 from a 73 grabber. It's sitting in the shop in my way if you're interested let me know.
     
  13. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    I think so, don't remember anyone having issues... That's almost a surprize as Ford usually did not install the threaded inserts in chassis for equipment not installed... In past I've had to install them for z bar mount when going to a manual transmission and most recently when I added P/S to my CJ...
     
  14. Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    Yes I would be very interested in it. I'm slowly deciding to move away from the 351. From what I have read the 302 is capable of the same thing up to around 500hp. The 351 has a stronger block that will make exceeding that number easier. Not really for for more then 300ish rwh.
     
  15. Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    Yea I think I'm convinced that 302 is the way to go. Just cause of the room. I'm not trying to make crazy hp so I don't see the point of all the extra work. If I should get a hunkering for more power I can always swap heads and cams.
     

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