I checked this morning for a crushed fuel line under the body and the line is good, However, with the vehicle not running, I removed the breather and looked in the carb while opening the accelerator to full throttle. The primary baffles opened just fine as they should but the secondary baffles never moved. Nor did I see any fuel squirting in the secondary. Are they supposed to move when not running or only when the motor is running?
For street carbs the secondaries are vacuum operated, only open at higher RPMs... There are race carbs with mechanical operation that open at approx 1/2 - 3/4 throttle... Those usually are referred to as "double pumpers" meaning they also have squirters in rear, vacuum secondary carbs do not have these... So now it's looking like you are never getting any secondary action and that engine is "giving up" well before the secondaries would come into play... Still most likely a fuel issue, as before need to verify pressure on acceleration...
Can I check the fuel pressure while in drive? Or does it need to be under a load? If needs to be under a load to get the correct reading, I can't see me doing that since the pressure gauge is under the hood mounted to the fender well.
Really should be connected via a long hose that makes gauge visible while driving... Most tech will just tape gauge to windshield and go for a short ride to see how pressure reacts to various throttle openings...
I checked the pressure while in park. First of all, I'm only carrying around 3 lbs of pressure at idle and when punching the throttle, it bogs and the pressure drops a little. When just revving about half throttle, it revs up nice and the pressure stays about the same. It chaps my butt that the shop that installed the electric fuel pump said it was fixed when it was not. The manual pump that was on it had the correct pressure, around 6 to 6 1/2 lbs. That was a waste of $280 for nothing.
Are you saying these issues started when you swapped the pump over from mechanical to electric? Or simply that you're unsatisfied with the result of throwing cash at a pre-existing bogging problem that wasn't cured with the new e-pump?
No. It was doing the same thing when it had the manual pump. That's the reason I took it to the repair shop.
this site is acting up again and duplicating posts. My educated opinion? It should seem rather obvious after 2 pumps and 2 different carbs that you do NOT have a fueling issue. You have an ignition related issue. Weak coil or improper ignition timing would be my quick guess. And yes, 3lbs fuel pressure with a drop on heavy throttle is on the low side but it will still fill the bowl and carry a motor into full revs for a brief time until the bowl empties and the pump can't keep up. Having had 6 or 6 1/2 prior to e-pump swap, obviously not the main issue at play here.
Well I did swap out the points for an electronic ignition. I still have the points and condenser and coil from before. I could easily change that out, reset the timing and see if that makes any difference.
This is why I don't like helping over the internet. Too much focus on the wrong things and not enough details or history. That would have been one of my quick 20 questions asked in a phone call. Also consider that if you have an original in-line ballast still connected to the new coil it may be dropping secondary voltage by HUGE amounts. Basically, as rpm increases so does fuel density and pressure in the combustion chamber which culminates into poor revability. Quickly squashes the poor sparks ability to light off the charge as if you had a dead battery.
It's easy enough to check voltage at battery side of coil to get a idea if there is possibility of a low voltage condition...
Could also be a case of worn advance plate bushings. Worn bushings cause the gap to fluctuate when vacuum changes.