Coil Spring Compressor

I know not to use a strut (outside) compressor. Local stores have these for "Loan a Tool". Not sure which one I should use or easiest to use between these two. I ordered suspension parts and hopefully going to start next week or so.
Tool A
Tool B

Thanks

 

Either one will work, however Tool A you may bottom out the threads before spring is compressed enough to remove, Tool B may work better for you. Just play it safe, wear gloves and safety eye protectors and beware to try and keep yourself out of "line of fire" in case compressor lets go...........oil the thread too!
David

 

Tool 2 in the red case is closer to what I could use for front spring. It has the shoe and screw jack which can be used to compress spring against top of shock tower if you need to remove Spring, Perch or UCA. You may need to add a top plate to make it work. The spring hooks on most cheap compressors can easily slip and unexpectedly release the spring.

Typical inner compressors won't easily work without some modification, vehicle specific tools are often fabbed by trade mechanics or enthusiasts when needed, some tools available from specialty vendors.


... simplest tricks of the trade is to use compressor through the shock mount: Remove by compressing the spring upward into the spring/shock tower - then release UCA fasteners and swing UCA out of way (take note of alignment shims) - release spring compressor and remove spring. To install; compressor through shock mount compresses spring into tower, UCA installed (shims?), release spring into UCA spring perch - carefully *... .

Working with coil springs is not fun , and needs careful consideration. I always drop a safety chain through center in case of problem.


Tool I fabbed up attaches to spring perch and pulls spring up into shock tower.



-


* care and caution are urged as well documented stories of painful spring R/R problems abound...

 

I purchased a compressor similiar to the one Powerband made. There is tech article on one of the sites on how to do it.
I didn't trust fabbing one and was eager to get my front end rebuild going, so, I didn't think to much of the $80.00 dollars or so for peace-of-mind. I also use a chain thru the spring for safety. I thought it a reasonable price and as it turned out had to use it 3 times.
FYI -- don't forget to replace the spring isolators at the of spring.

 

I use B. To remove the spring...



To remove upper control arm or spring perch...

 

I rent tool B...

"Tool A you may bottom out the threads before spring is compressed enough to remove."

 

I used B last summer. First time to compress springs for me. Be careful, and oil the threads! Autozone will let u borrow one for a $50.00 refundable deposit.

 

I have the spring removal tool in the following listing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1973-...h=item3cd07510e4:g:JEIAAMXQMmJRXDSe#vi-ilComp

This seller also has sub frame connectors for our vehicles.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1977-...007592?hash=item3af6c1eda8:g:lVUAAOSwZaNaAmHP

 

That's the compressor I have! I bought a 1 1/8" open/rachet wrench to turn the compression nut. What did you use to turn the nut?

 

Huh. Right below the spring compressor the seller has spring perches with grease fittings and bushings made from "synthetic elastomer." Almost sounds like house paint. When layers of house paint are 1/4 inch thick, as they accumulate in a plastic paint pan waiting to get peeled out in one piece, it is surprisingly tough stuff. $107 new sounds better than four hours spent on rounding up tools and junkyarding to buy in-expensive, possibly worn out ones. They are said to not squeak?

 

The first time I have seen these. They might be nice alternative between rubber and rollers! For a few more dollars than rubber, I would go w/ these.

 

I just ordered these from research on here. Look to to be very similar
http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/C4DZ-3388-HP.aspx?wid=141

 

It has been awhile, I do not recall what I used at the time.