Can anyone make a recommendation for a good shop in the South Atlanta area? I've been helping my grandfather on a 74 Mav w/ 302 that I've posted about a few times here. We've been able to do quite a lot on it (and still much to do), but one thing we haven't been able to get right is the tuning on the engine. It just doesn't run smooth, idles high, and low hunting vacuum, and we haven't been able to make progress on it. We did find a bent push rod after taking the valve covers off. Replaced it, the rocker, and lifter (and valve covers), but that didn't make a lot of difference. We've played with the timing-I don't know how many times. And can't figure out the low vacuum. I think we're ready to turn it over to someone more experienced with engine tuning and get schooled on it. Can anyone make a recommendation for a shop in/near South Atlanta? We're in Morrow, GA (Clayton County). Preferably someplace close to that but we'll go further.
No. That's something I haven't done that I should have. Just pulled the wires and plugs. Less than 100 miles on plugs and they are dry foiled, covered in black carbon. I still wonder if we have vacuum leak we've missed. I'm gonna try a more thorough check for that after compression test. Try to plug off all thr egr stuff. I wish I knew how to remove that stuff permanently. I'll do compression test tomorrow. Gotta power rake the front yard now. Dumb question: what's best way to handle fuel, shut it off, while cranking for compression test?
No need to shut off fuel, assuming carb is OK, one squirt when you block open throttle isn't going to hurt anything... Ground coil wire to prevent arcing... As long as throttle is half open your good, I never bother blocking the plate... Yet to see a engine it actually made a difference... With plugs carboned in 100 miles, assuming compression is ok, it's a 99% you have a carb issue... A vac leak causes white scorched plugs... If cranking speed has a even rhythmic sound, compression is probably OK... The ones that have dead cylinder(s) will unload the starter causing uneven cranking...
I pull all the plugs to do the compression check. I suggested the compression check because of the bent push rod...may be stuck/bent valve.
It’s not easy finding an old school Ford mechanic. We have a great one in Woodstock GA. “Georgia Classic Fords”. Harold is the owner and he bleeds Ford blue. Always fun to visit because he always has a lot of nice Fords in his shop. He can make your motor purr like it was brand new.
Finally got finished with yard work and did the compression check today: #1 130 #5 135 #2 135 #6 130- #3 135+ #7 135 #4 135+ #8 130+
This is the 2nd carb that's been put on it, excluding the original. By two different shops. And it still doesn't run as it should, and has low & hunting vacuum, and the black carbon buildup on the plugs. We've also played with timing and carb adjustments ourselves for hours without smoothing it out. I'm not sure what else to do other than find a pro to take a look at it.
Thank you for the recommendation! A little far out but we'll give them a try as soon as we get everything nailed back down where we can drive it.
Try a new float in the carb. I had the same issues for a week now and was stumped. Changed float and it runs perfect now. Old float was soaking in gas and weighing itself down.
