Hi, new to the forum. I have a 75 Maverick 4-door that was a 6cyl car that I bought for my son (with his money). Thge car had a 302 installed in it when I bought it. (From a 77 Mercury Monarch) The motor blew and I replaced it with a long block 302 from O'reilly's. I have a net a total of maybe 10 miles since the long block was insatalled. Currently we have lots of little issues. 1.)Overheating: The 302 overheats at idle. The radaitor (a new aluminum 3 core), water pump, Thermostat (190*), upper radiator hose, and the heater core are all new items I installed. I have a 6 blade fan on it and no shroud. With the old 302 it got just as hot as the new motor and all the new parts. Any ideas what could be causing it? My timing is set at 10* ATDC. I tried 6* but it makes it idle rough. Would it be a bad idea to run it without the thermostat during the summer if it continues overheating and that allows it to run closer to normal temps? 2.) Power steering: The power steering setup appears to be what was on the car from its 6cyl days. But the pump squeals when you gag it and it is a little rough to turn by hand with the belt removed. Not locked up but not smooth either. All of the lines into and out of the Power steering unit leak. It appears that when you turn to the left the lines want to hit the oil pan a little. But when you turn left they catch on the lower control arm bracket and they drag over the sharp metal. Questions: Did the grabber and the 6cyl models use the same system? If I wanted to replace the pump and the lines to whatever would have been on the v8 grabber model what all would I need to order? I have been to all kinds of auto parts stores and they all seem confused as to what would work on this car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also, my C4 tranny leaks somewhere. I think it is the vacuum module mounted to the tranny by the pan. I currently just have both of the lines hooked to the same intake vacuum port. Is that the correct way to hook that up? What is the purpose of the metal vacuum line that appears to run back to the fuel tank?
1. You need to run a shroud. Are you sure you have the proper rotation water pump? You can try a 160 thermostat but do not run without one. Timing should be set at 12* initial BTDC with vacuum advance plugged. 2. Most of these old p/s units leak until you replace the seals and lines. There should be a bracket that holds the lines that attaches to the motor stand. 3. The metal line from the fuel tank is a vent. It should be hooked up to a charcoal canister behind the shock tower.
Thanks. That helps. 1.) I dont have a shroud and the aftermarket radiator may make finding a compatible one hard to find. If I make one out of stainless or aluminum, does it matter if i cover the bottom? How can I test to see what rotation of water pump I have? Would a 160* thermostat have to be changed in the winter? Most of the old ford sites (mustangs and f100 sites) said 6* on timing. I assumed they would be the same on a late 70's stock 302. Most said not to run more than 10*. On the timing, I have 5 marks on my new harmonic balancer. 10*, TDC (or 0) 10*, 20*, and 30*. Is BTDC the first 10* or the 10 after the 0? When I start the car it likes to be on around 14* to make it easy to start. I just pulled the vacuum advance line off. Does it make a difference if it wasnt capped off when i set it? On the Power steering, is there somewhere i can go to see what this bracket looks like? I dont appear to have one. If my PS unit does'nt spin smoothly shouldnt I just replace it? What seals are you talking about? Those lines dont look like run of the mill lines. Where might I find such a thing, or do I have to have someone make them like Hyspeco? My Charcoal cannister is missing. But we have no emissions here in Missouri. Should I just leave this vent line open or should I dump it somewhere else? Sorry, I know i have lots of questions but ive gone about as far as I can without someone with more know-how of 70's era car tech. I generally drive (and work on) a VW Diesel or a Duramax Diesel, these old V8's are a different animal all-together. Really appreciate your help.
I hope you mean 10* BTDC, ATDC is severely retarded and will cause heating issues. It's very doubtful you have a reverse rotation pump(popular suggestion though).. Those have a wider bolt pattern for fan and pump pulley. A high radiator core count restricts air flow through it, makes shroud mandatory. Approx half of fan blade should be inside shroud, almost any is better than none. P/S lines varied by engine and year, there are two chassis clamps(one some years?) that secure lines away from sharp or moving parts. BUT note the lines will drag across belly bar and pan, metal wrap on original hoses was for protection. All the replacements I've seen cheap out and use snake skin plastic wrap. Some only have foam rubber. Replace rough pump.. Front bearing is bushing type, though roughness is probably in rotor assembly. I had picture of bracket & hoses in my build but that thread fell victim to photobucket. Just found it! A clamp with rubber insulator bolts to protruding bracket. The second bracket(not pictured & never installed) bolted on rear side of tower, near lower control arm mounting. Yes I replaced trans cooler line before engine install.
I wish I had thought to do that. Those lines are nearly impossible to install after the motor is in. It took a 1/2" crows foot, a wobble, and 12" extension and about an hour to figure out how to hook those puppies up to the tranny.
Im not sure how to edit the post. It mixed what I said with what you said for some reason. Sorry message board noob.
Apparently I'm noticing I dont have a belly bar. Is mine just missing or is that something thats not on the 4 door models?
Bar is V8 models only, you car should have mounting provisions installed at factory. Set timing with vac line disconnected..
