http://www.summitracing.com/customerservice/cs_02index.htm??p_sid=V3xyC-yh&p_lva=&p_sp=&p_li= I ask summet about what stall and rear gear i should run and this is what they sent me. What do you all thank? Thank you for the information. Let me supply you with three scenarios; taking into account the 28.0 inch tall tires, Ford/FMS Z cam, vehicle weight, C4, compression, cubic inches, intake, and mechanical double pump Holley, 1/8 mile, etc. One, as a “hot” street car. Use a 3.4:1 or 3.5:1 gear ratio and a 2,200 to 2,400 converter. Two, as a dual purpose Street/Strip (1/8th mile) car. Use a 3.7:1 to 3.9:1 gear ratio and a 2,400 converter. Three, as a Drag Race/Strip (1/8th mile) only car. Use a 4.2:1 to or 4.6:1 gear ratio and a 2,600 to 2,800 converter. Some of the gear ratio options will be determined/limited by the actual differential in the Maverick. I would suspect that Ford built this car with the 8-inch differential. I may be able to fine tune my suggestions if you would let me know which differential you have and what your intentions are for the Maverick.
they basically look about ballpark. you can use rear tire height to change any of these packages to some extent. perhaps use a 28" tire on the street, but go to 26" on the track. this would help lower the cruise rpm. i started with a 3.00 rear and added a 11" 2300 stall converter. then added a 4.10 ring & pinion ( & 26" gdyr street radial slicks) which changed the stall to about 1900 rpm (yes, raising the ratio # actually drops the stall on a footbrake car). broke the turbine hub in the converter, so went to a 10" which currently stalls at about 3100 rpm. all this took a very mild 302 from 15.15s at a 500' elev track to an on-the brakes 14.35 at the bracket finals at a sea level track. its ok driving around town, but on the interstate i have to do about 3500 rpm to be doing around 60 mph. havent dug up the wheels to go to a 28" rear tire on the street yet. you probably have an 8" rear, so your options are 3.00, 3.55, 3.80, 4.11, & 4.62 ratios. Jeg's & Summit have them. the advisor is correct in that it is hard to make a specific recommendation without more information on your intentions and drivetrain. if it were me, i would forget the pumper carb for combo #1 and maybe #2 also. a well-tuned vac carb would probably be best in those 2 setups, and help the mileage a little.
Post more specs please. Compression, cam numbers, cubic inches etc.... what you want in reality street/ or mostly track and I will try and get you in the ball park. Also what kind of heads
I was thinking this one be best for me Two, as a dual purpose Street/Strip (1/8th mile) car. Use a 3.7:1 to 3.9:1 gear ratio and a 2,400 converter. As for the mave it will see some 8th mile track time but mostly a weekender on the street. I have a 89 5.0L bored 30 over with 289 torker intake, 650 holley double pumper, Gt40p heads with stock valves and will be getting a port job on the exh side and milled 40 thousands to give me a 10.5 compresson, FMS Z303 Cam C4 trans and 8 inch rear end for now and yes I plane on using M/T SS I tread L60 tires on a 15x8 Rim. I also may be getting a Erson roller cam with 294 302 duration, 226 234 duration @050, 544 544 Lift, 110+4 lob seperation. I just not sure about going that big. 3,000-6,700 Non-computer controlled, naturally aspirated street machines with 9.5-10.5:1compression in 302 CID engines, will find strong mid-range torque and top endhorsepower with this camshaft. Popular with ported, aftermarket, aluminum cylinderheads, matched Victor Jr. style intake and 750 cfm carburetion. 4- or 5-speed manual orC-4 automatic with 3,000 RPM converter and low gears. Good choice for nitrous oxide. thanks
That cam would work well IMO. Will have some rumpity rump but still very streetable. I would go a little more stahl like a 2800 to 3200. The gears are cool. I would dump that intake manifold and go with a Edelbrock rpm or RPM air gap. Those ported heads will thank you for it. A nice set of headers and 2.5 dual exhaust and that is an easy low 13 high 12 second car or faster with the right tune. The erson cam is the one I would go with it. Z cam would need more gear and stahl. You could go with an X -cam
ditto.. back in the day when i dumped my torker intake and went to a performer rpm (not the regular performer cuz thats worse in your type of set up) . it was 10x better! now they have the air gap which is supposed to be better... i switched to it never noticed anything but any thing keeping the heat exchange away from the motor has to be good. sell the torker on e-bay someone will buy it. also i had a cam close to yours b4 and even tried a victor jr for the hell of it... it ran slower about 3 10ths slower... that manifold needs way more cam!
JAP 901 if you can give Sean a call at DYNAMIC CONVERTERS 1-877-846-5876 hes tops on the c-4 converters The off the shelf converters they just aint worked for me. You may have to spend a little more $$$ but its built for your car. After you get a price on it tell him i said to call he will give you a discount on it good luck Ivy Collins and get you a rpm intake
Thanks everone for you comments. Ford Man I will give them a call thanks. I stell have the fms z303 cam and i did in up with the erson cam which you that be better cam? I am thanking the erson will be do to i have read that a set of gt40p heads benifit from a dual pattern can with the larger#s on the exh side. FMS Z303 Erson Cam Duration @050 Duration @050 228 int & exh 226 int 234 exh Lift Lift .552 int & exh .544 int & exh Lob seperation Lob seperation 112 or 114 110+4
