My build "White Fang"

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by rag9836, Sep 27, 2019.

  1. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    after another long break, back at it.

    The further I go the worse the rust is looking. Has anyone's cowl/apron area been this bad?

    Anyone know a good body shop in the Riverside, CA area? ugh

    cowl.jpg
     
  2. Vestrimatrik

    Vestrimatrik Member

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    I just did mine a couple months ago. If you have a decent welder, some sheet metal, and a bit of time, you could build the rusted out areas.

    I'm not going to say its easy because it's not, but it's worth it in the end.



    Here's how I did mine
     
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  3. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It really helps seeing someone do it. I’ve got the welder, metal and as you can tell.. I am in no hurry.

    Video is great. We’ll see how much progress I can make this week.
     
  4. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Made some good progress today. Got all the black tar gunk out of the windshield channel with some paint stripper and all the spot welds are clearly exposed. Tore down the 302 and it's ready to go to the machine shop this Friday. Tracking to have the cowl off by end of day Sunday.

    With the 8-10 week lead times on heads, trying to determine the engine build that will work with what I have thus far:

    * Hughes C4 street/strip trans with 2500 stall
    * Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
    * Performer intake
    * Doug Thorley Shorty Headers

    Not building the car for the strip... just around the town and what not.

    Thinking 165 ARFs and stroking to 331? Anyone have something close to this setup with feedback on it?

    50 years of gunk on this engine...first time it's ever had any work done on it.

    engine.jpg
     
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  5. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    You can stroke the 302 to 331 if you like, now is the time to do so. AFR165s are a great choice of head for either a 302 or 331 as they have smaller valves that will work with most flat-top pitons. Plus, they can handle some high RPM air flow and are monsters with the right combination of performance parts.

    The Edelbrock carb or Performer intake are not a great choice for either 302 or 331 with AFR165 heads and we have not even considered the cam which is key to the selected combination.

    Check out my combination of matched performance parts; Hotrock is really fun to drive and maintains its 302 heritage.

    Just use the following link:
     
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  6. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    Your current scheme looks like a performance motor with a restrictor plate. There are cheaper ways to build a street motor.....but if you are really wanting to have the option of serious grunt in the future and you only want to spend money once, I could see that. If that is the real deal, dont leave the rear gear undone. Dont forget about all the other upgrades you will need to make that thing go straight and stop......or just build a street motor.
     
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  7. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    The ARF 165 with a 58cc chamber are good ones. Just remove the inner valve spring for cam break in then reinstall it after running the cam for a little while. Easy to do even with the heads on. Stroking to 331 with a mild .440' lift, 214@.050 type cam will make it a tire smoker when you want it to. It will also make it easy to drive. I use the same in a 66 Stang 331/C-4 with 8" and 3.55 gears on a posi. Easy to drive, starts easy in the cold, runs nicely around town and will smoke the tires easy. I used 302 heads that have 1.90 int & 1.6 exh valves that has been heavily ported out, (old school). I even found an old Edelbrock F4B intake that is period correct and talking with the tech@Edelbrock, that say it's still one of the best and hard to beat.
    2500 stall will depend on cam and gearing. Decide on those before getting the cam. Or match them to the cam. Otherwise it will fight you.
    Ignition, I like Accel but only because their dist are "stand alone". They don't require that ugly ignition box and wires everywhere. Use them on my Stang, on a Mav 351W I built and on my 460, 68 Cougar.
     

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  8. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    477CB09A-27EC-4777-BEA6-839E04077800.jpeg Thanks for the feedback guys. Dropped off the engine to the machine shop yesterday. Now to see what parts I can find in stock!
    4A7B392F-433D-4388-8CEB-1663938A8135.jpeg
     
  9. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    Looked over your machine shop list and prices. They are about right, depending on machinist. But instead of having the block's decked, have it squared. By squaring it you get the same distance from the main journal to each deck. I had this done to my 460 block and one side was .035" higher then the other. Not anymore it isn't.
    Also when you get it back, chamber all the oil drain back holes and then clear the shit out of it yourself. Especially the oil holes to the cam bearings. Rifle and shotgun cleaning kits with the stiff brushes works great. I also chamber the oil cross over hole in the lifter galley.
     

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  10. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Ended up going to a different machine shop. Went with AFR 185 (1388 part#). They should arrive Friday… was last one in stock!
     
  11. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    If I may ask, the reason for changing machinists?
     
  12. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    General feedback from folks that had used them. Luckily I found a guy that folks all have positive things to say about.

    not a lot of shop options in Riverside.
     
  13. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Almost have the welds drilled out, just have the top portion to do tomorrow. Getting a little scared with all the rust, I hope it's not too bad but I am pretty sure it's going to be really bad when this thing comes off. Any tricks to breaking the cowl lose once all the welds are done? The aprons were a pain.

    Engine was cleaned, torn down and magnafluxed on Friday. Next week should be tracking down all the parts to stroke it to a 331.

    cowl.jpg
     
  14. Vestrimatrik

    Vestrimatrik Member

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    Yes, try not to pry the metal too much and bend the flanges all out of shape. If you do it may result in a cowl that sits lower compared to the fender.

    When it comes time to put the top cowl back on, put it all together with sheet metal screws and test the fitment against the fenders. Thats a headache no one wants to deal with.

    Good job so far (y)
     
  15. Tannersg1

    Tannersg1 Member

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    Here's what mine started and ended like. Done it all myself. It was fun.
     

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