What did you do to your Maverick or Comet today

hope you find the reason it blew.
my Taurus fan setup would randomly blow a 30 amp fuse. I replace the fuse holder with a 30 amp breaker, then when it tripped it would reset .
the fuel pump I have now would blow a 20 amp mini fuse, it also would melt the fuse holder. I replaced it with same amp midsize fuse and it stopped blowing/melting.

 

Thanks for the info Frank, would have never thought replace fuses w/ same amp ratings would make a difference. Don't care how old you are -- can learn something new everyday.

 

In event of overload, the fuse is to protect wiring. Sized correctly, a melted fuse generally means there was a poor connection at/in the holder. Even then, a 30A fuse will likely start to heat once current passes 25A.

Fuses are supposed to be designed with a bit of head room(say 6-8%). In other words a 30A will hold till 32A is reached and even then won't blow on a few seconds at 35A.

Never, never, never use a offshore fuse, only a quality US mfg.

 

Got her ready to take to a car show tomorrow,with her siblings.

 

Finally got parts for the heater box Install and restore completely
Install new fuel line from back to front one step closer

 

Just got my new seat covers from Fred and they are beautiful. Fred does really quality work! The foams are not in that bad shape, but after 50 years I would rather just put in new. AutoKrafters has foams for the high back seats, but I am seeing all kinds of different opinions on which foams are best. I saw a post about Mustangs Unlimited but they went out of business. I looked at Mustang market, and the price is great. I have seen here that 71-73 Mustang foams are the same, but the part number for the Maverick foams (SF7) is different from the Mustang (SF6)?
Does anyone have a definitive answer?

 

You might just reach out to Fred and find out which foam he recommends. He makes the covers and should be able to tell you which foam fits best with his product.

 

Took her to a car show, people loved seeing a Comet.

 

Took my car to show too, first time in two weeks after E-Fan quit leaving me calling recovery vehicle. Replaced fan & controller today an hung out with Maverick friends.

 

Installed a battery isolation tool to be able to unscrew a knob to isolate the battery from the car. Nothing new about it, and very inexpensive at about $10. It makes it much safer to work on the car and avoid mishaps like wrenches shorting out the starter.

 

The assets of Mustangs Unlimited were acquired by Top Flight Automotive which owns a few Mustang related sites. It’s possible that brands previously sold by Mustangs Unlimited are now carried by Top Flight.

 

Did a bit of tuneup work. I connected my new digital dwell meter and it read 32 degrees ( once I figured how to set the meter to 8 cylinders.) I could not, however, get the tach feature working. I found out the induction clip needs to be ordered as an optional feature and it’s more money than the meter itself. Switching the meter to RPM while connected to the coil did not result in a reading.

Moving on, I connected my ancient timing light and could not see the timing marks so I’ll wait for my top dead center tool to arrive. I accidentally bought one for 14 mm spark plugs but the stock 302 has a 18 mm spark plug thread. (11/16 “ I believe). I also cleaned off the marks on the harmonic balancer and sprayed the marks with white rust paint. I’ll let it set up then sand down the surface to leave white marks on the balancer.

I had some stalling issues at stoplights, so I turned both idle screws to the left by a 1/4 turn each. This seemed to increase the idle speed enough that it no longer stalls. ( it is cooler now so maybe that also helped. )

Anyway I need to check TDC and get the timing checked, then figure out if I need a different meter to get the idle rpm. I did connect a vacuum gage to the front passenger side port on the carb. I got no vacuum but revving the engine got it up into the twenties of Hg. This line is normally connected to the advance diaphragm on the distributor. The diaphragm itself is functional and can hold vacuum.

The choke works and comes off as the engine warms up. More later.

 

Thanks for the tip. I degreased the marked area, sprayed white coloured rust paint, let it dry and used a foam block sander on it. This view was from beneath the car.

 

Finally got the Stainless Steel reinforcement plate for the MDL (Modern Drive Line) Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder done and test fitted, everything seems OK.
Instead of using their plate that mounts on the passenger compartment firewall, where you have to cut part of the plate which secures the gasket where the steering column goes through. I decided to fabricate a plate out of aluminum, if this does not work, at least the MDL plate can still be used.
With extra SS reinforcement plate, MDL's engine side collar and the plate that I made from aluminum (5/16" thick), I do not think there will be any flex in the firewall!
Will have to drill new hole in the Clutch Pedal, just below the OEM, so lines up with the Hydraulic Clutch M/C push rod and make pedal stop, so does not exceed 1.4" travel that is recommended.
Next project to replace the steering rag joint with U-joint along with bearing to support.......
David

 

Why U-Joint replacing rag joint?