Front Disc/Rear Drum

Discussion in 'Technical' started by 302maverickman, May 19, 2023.

  1. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    Messages:
    7,561
    Likes Received:
    2,319
    Trophy Points:
    531
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Chesapeake VA
    Vehicle:
    1972 Comet GT clone 306 . 1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 1988 T-Bird awaiting 331 ..
    I've converted three to front disc & yet to use a proportioning valve. Years back I converted a '69 Ranchero, more recently my Comet, latest my '69 Fairlane. I did use a disc/drum master cylinder on the Comet. On Ranchero & Fairlane disabled the residual pressure valve in MC for front drums. None have/had power brakes and have approx equal brake bias. I suspect with power brakes there may be a tendency to lock rears first, but with manual, need to be on brakes very hard before lockup occurs.

    I was planning on a full conversion of Fairlane, but last year the 54 year old booster on Cobra finally gave up, installed one earmarked for Fairlane on it.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2023
    TeeEl likes this.
  2. Mongrel

    Mongrel Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2010
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Cañon City, CO
    Vehicle:
    1971 Maverick Grabber
    I have been running the orginal '71 drum/drum master cylindar since the conversion and I have had no issues. It does take a bit more effort to stop but not a huge issue. It also is not locking up the rear even under very hard braking. I am hoping to get the '74 disk/drum master cylindar installed this week.
     
  3. TeeEl

    TeeEl Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2019
    Messages:
    728
    Likes Received:
    468
    Trophy Points:
    162
    Location:
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Ford Maverick Resto-Mod
    Good idea on the '74 disc/drum master cylinder. I'm running a '75, but with the '74, you have to re-flare the end of only one of the short lines that go from the MC to the distribution block. the other one is already the correct fitting size.
    Save the push-rod from your old drum/drum master cylinder and install it on the new disc/drum unit, because the push-rod that comes with the disc/drum MC is longer which will cause your brake pedal to be uncomfortably high...
     
    Shorty likes this.
  4. 302maverickman

    302maverickman Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2022
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    Portland Oregon
    Vehicle:
    1972 Ford Maverick
    Hey everyone, I really appreciate the replies... I have been super busy the last several weeks with high school finals and other similar bs but I am excited to start tackling the brake conversion once again!
     
  5. Mongrel

    Mongrel Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2010
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Cañon City, CO
    Vehicle:
    1971 Maverick Grabber
    Thank you for the advice. I do have a question how do you remove the push-rod from the MC. It seems to clip in and once installed it will not come out.
     
  6. TeeEl

    TeeEl Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2019
    Messages:
    728
    Likes Received:
    468
    Trophy Points:
    162
    Location:
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Ford Maverick Resto-Mod
    Place the old MC in a vice, put a large adjustable wrench over the "eyelet" end sideways. Smack the wrench with a large hammer. The clip will break and the push-rod will come out. The new MC has a new clip in it, and normally comes with the push-rod not installed. Snap your old push-rod into the new MC and make sure it locks in place...
     
    fredee likes this.
  7. Mongrel

    Mongrel Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2010
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Cañon City, CO
    Vehicle:
    1971 Maverick Grabber
    Finally got the master cylinder installed. Ended up removing the line for the rear brakes and replacing both fittings. It seems the fitting that connected the line to the distribution block was damaged at some point and it may also have damaged the block too. I had a hell of a time getting the line to seat and seal. If it leaks again I may have to replace the block. If I do does anyone have a recordation on one to use? Maybe from a Mustang or other Ford that is available.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. TeeEl

    TeeEl Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2019
    Messages:
    728
    Likes Received:
    468
    Trophy Points:
    162
    Location:
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Ford Maverick Resto-Mod
    Looks good. Why are you using fitting adapters? Did you paint the calipers?...
     
  9. Mongrel

    Mongrel Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2010
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Cañon City, CO
    Vehicle:
    1971 Maverick Grabber
    I did not paint the calipers, that is how they showed up.

    On the '74 master cylinder it comes with the adapter for the front brakes and the line fit the adapter without changing the fitting. On the rear brakes I had to change the fittings on the line and could not find a 7/16 x 24 fitting localy but did find two 1/2 x 20 fittings and I already had the 7/16 x 24 male to 1/2 x 20 female adapter on hand so I used it.
     
  10. TeeEl

    TeeEl Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2019
    Messages:
    728
    Likes Received:
    468
    Trophy Points:
    162
    Location:
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '73 Ford Maverick Resto-Mod
    Those calipers & hubs are gonna get all rusty. Should have sprayed high-temp paint on them. Might be able to do some masking and paint them while they're on there.

    Should look like this:
    0614171916.jpg
     
    Tannersg1 likes this.
  11. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Messages:
    1,327
    Likes Received:
    450
    Trophy Points:
    196
    Location:
    Carrollton TX
    Vehicle:
    72 Comet
    After a couple of aftermarket block failures, I ended up getting a OEM for a 70 - 73 Mustang disc/drum car and rebuilding/resealing it. After installing the OEM, I found out the problem with aftermarket blocks is that one of the seals is incorrect, and will fail. If you use aftermarket get a seal kit for an OEM and use those seals instead, all should be good then.
     
    TeeEl likes this.
  12. Mongrel

    Mongrel Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2010
    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Cañon City, CO
    Vehicle:
    1971 Maverick Grabber
    Thank you for the advice
     

Share This Page