1974 Stock 302, Edel performer heads, Edel 600cfm, and just bought the Summit K3600 cam kit (Hydraulic, 262/272 Advertised duration, mild-moderate cam). When I install this thing, do I need to do any kind of degreeing, or just install it "straight up"? PS-This is my first cam swap, so "simple but effective" is better than "more difficult but a little better", at least for now. I can always come back later and make adjustments. If there is "simple, but also a little better" that I can do now, please advise.
Did you get an adjustable timing set? Unless the cam directions tell you differently, it's best to install it straight up. I prefer to check the cam timing to make sure everything is within tolerance, but to do that you need a degree wheel, and a dial indicator. With your engine though I would consider advancing the cam a few degrees. The '74 blocks had a higher deck height to give about a half point lower compressiion ratio, and your running Edelbrock heads that have larger than stock 60 cc chambers. You need to try and build more cylinder pressure and advancing the cam about 4* would do that.
There is a simple way to check your cam timing. Find cyl #1 "TRUE" top dead center when cam is at overlap (when both lifters are up) and check you how far your lifters are out of their bores. With a straight edge across the #1 cyl lifters the intake will be higher than the exhaust if the cam is advanced, they will be even if at "0", and the exhaust will be higher if your cam is retarded. You have to find True Top Dead Center and you need to check your that your lifters are the same length. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. lbr
Not all cams have an equal amount of overlap at TDC so that's not a very accurate way to tell cam timing. The best way is to use a degree wheel and dail indicator.
shame on me. After installing at least 10 different cams over the years I have never degreed a single one! Always just straight up, but no degree wheel used.. Opps. Leaving horsepower on the table?
Same grind as the Edelbrock Performer Plus camshaft. It is cut with 5 degrees advance when installed straight up. Adding another 4 costs you power. As is, according to Engine Analyzer 3.0, 253lbs torque and 250hp at the flywheel. Got headers yet? Stock manifolds will absolutely kill the benefits of those heads.
To be honest I have a degree wheel and have installed most cams straight up whithout using it. I got it when I raced motorcycles and was looking for every last HP
This is a copy of what I wrote on another thread: OK, got it running, thanks to all the help from you guys. I got it timed to within 2' and primed the oil 3 times. The first time just to see if it worked, the second time I ran it until oil came out of the tops of the rockers, then one last time after installing all parts and ready to run. It started within 2 turns (ruhh-ruhh-VROOOM!). Ran it at 1500-2500 for 30 minutes, adjusted the idle down to about 1000, and took it for a spin for another half hour, but taking it easy. The only thing I messed up on was I put wads of papertowel in each of the intake ports on the heads, and must have forgot to take them out before putting on the manifold. For the first 30 seconds, I had flaming bits of paper coming out of the exhaust, and flying all around the garage and surrounding neighborhood. Scary, but after it all burned out, it ran fine. Hopefully, no permanent damage. PS-I turned in the priming tool I got from Hi-Lo ($40), it was 5/16". Went to the local hardware and bought 3 magnetized screwdriver extensions for $2 each (that use the plug in screwdriver bits) put them together, put it on the drill, worked perfectly.
