does the GT40P have a different exhuast bolt pattern? Or, are the ports raised possibly creating difficulties with header fitment? Headers may bolt up but would no longer fit the model/application. Can't remember but thought I would mention it. ooops, guess it was mentioned already, spark plugs are the problem.
That was a GREAT website outlining how to port and polish your heads. But, I think Jap may be right, at least for me. Save the time (and save some money) and buy aftermarket aluminums. I would hate to put that much time and work into a project, to just come back a year later and replace it with a better product. I do that enough already.
Efimav The GT40P exhaust bolt pattern is the same. The ports are larger than even a 351W. I had to grind the openings larger on the exhaust gaskets.
These are reman'd heads with springs, and valves... they are reman'd to stock specs, so their not performance by any means, but are supposed be basically like buying a new stock E7... I think this may be the way I have to go.. since my always aspiring plans... 331 or 347 with aluminum heads... all seem too far out of reach. I'm getting tired of saying I'll get the engine done someday... I think I'll have to bite the bullet and just get it done... then someday when I win the lotto, get it done right.
If you are refuring to the gt40p heads being like a stock E7 head you should look at some flowbench charts. http://www.stangpro.com/html/articles/gt40p_files/gt40p1.htm The stock gt40p head is better than any of the SBF heads in stock form and some in ported form and a set of gt40p heads with a stage 1 port job will flow almost as good as some of the aluminum heads. http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/flowdata/castiron.htm I say for good budget build/bolt on preformance part go with gt40p heads.
just an imo I said to myself, "self, you'll have ALOT of time and money making performace heads out of a oe set of 302 heads, And heads can make or break a motor, And you don't trust used gear of that type, so you're stuck buying new, if you are gonna spend a chunk, why not just a bit more?" so i listened to myself and did. I bought the roush 180 a.k.a. world products windsor jr. 1.94in 1.60exh, 58cc chamber, 180cc intake runner, necked down valves, and cranecams aluminum roller rockers. all on a ""healthy"" cam. and then i never looked back:evilsmile (except at the other car in my rearview) just my opinion, sorry to rant/rave/etc. i have no knowlege of the heads discussed in the this thread. what i do know is i looked at my carbon blackened stock p.o.s.'s and said "those look like @$$, like breathing through a straw" i then looked at NIB roush180's and said "now thats a head"
Just to make sure that you understand I go for the gt40p heads if you don't have to put much $$ in them. My gt40p heads cost me. new bare casting gt40p heads $257.00 shipped from ebay new set of stainless valves $109.00 shipped from ebay new erson Valve springs and retaners $136.00 Shipped from erson Mechain work: cut spring pad & bowl hog $40.00 local adjust valve spring height $40.00 local Mill heads $90.00 local Grind valves & cut seats $60.00 local Carbid porting bit set $72.00 from ebay sanding rollers $32 from ebay total is $836.00 Plus the head i damaged cost me another $105 so my total was $939.00
Wow! I think I may have to hold out on the heads a bit. Even "stock" heads are running $1K? I was thinking $200-$300.
$90 to mill the heads" $105 for abrasives? Plus a lot of custom work at a machine shop. $$$$$$$ I bought my GT40Ps new from Jegs, about $700 fully assembled with GT40 valve train and stainless exhaust valves. Shipping was even free. Had them in 3 days. The Ford dealer said it would take him 3 weeks to get 'em and I'd have to pay $42 state sales tax! After porting I did step up to a set of Ford Racing hi temp valve stem seals -$35. Added some Crane Energizer roller rockers, $159 at that time. I estimate I spent about $30 on abrasives and about 25 hours of my time.
The $105 was for a new head not adrasives I still have the other head i damaged but it is now fixed I had the welders at the school i go to weld it up but i just bought another head to be safer then sorry. The funds i have in them was a little at a time and i didn't know i had that much in them till i figgerd it up all i can say is i learned a good lesson.
GT40P price correction... I posted earlier that I paid $700 for my assembled GT40Ps from Jegs. I thought that sounded high when I typed it. Found my old paperwork. The heads cost me $540 initially, not $700. Jap901, think of all the fun you would've missed just buying "out of the box" parts! Seriously though, it's by doing things yourself and making "mistakes" that we learn more about this stuff.
I have seen those heads and i thought that was for each head but sence thats for a set I think thats a great price. I always wanted to learn how to port a set of heads and i did and its not as bad as I though as long as you have the right tools to work with and pay close attention to what your doing. I ported mine more than most have did on these heads by the ads i read on them most of them just gasket match ported, I gasket match exh ports and the runners and ported the bowls and polished them to slick finish, as soon as i can find out where i can get these heads flow benched I will gladly let you all know the resolets of improvement or dis-improvements that i done to them. Well as for mistakes thats a never ending road for me it seems like. I have never built an engine from the ground up, I have done the upper half of many engines but never the bottom end and so fare it has cost me one new piston and I have also nick the crank puting the other new piston in. I hope thats all of the mistakes I make on the rest of this engine I just can't aford any more mistakes. Thanks Jim
how long ago ? will they work with pushrods or do i need to have roller rockers and all that stuff... i might be able to afford 500 in the next 2 weeks...i am doing a webpage for my friends business.... just found out the price 30 mins ago.... i hope this all works out....then it will look like fate did this to me and not my bad luck
They will work with pushrods and you don't have to use roller rockers if you don't want to you will have to use Pedestal rockers or buy the adjustable rocker kit for the heads http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=adjustable+rocker+kit&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp
