Have a 70 maverick that is basically unhurt except for section of unibody where the right rear shock bolts to. I know this is a weak area on these cars.On this car it has completely seperated from the body (some rust but doesn't look excessive). Anybody gone thru this and have any ideas on how to repair it? A previous attempt at welding did not hold. Has anyone fabricated a new piece and had it welded in? Any help appreciated.
I've personally never had this happen so I don't know how much help I can be but I'll give it a shot. The reason the weld likely didn't hold was there is a lot of stress in this area and if the quality of the weld or the parts were substandard and/or the surfaces not cleaned properly prior to welding it will fail. You could likely make a simple bracket out of a small piece of scrap if the old one is not really useable. Hope someone has a better idea on this than mine. BTW, to the board.
I ripped mine out many years ago, between the air shocks and breaking a spring perch doing a burn out. I reinforced the trunk area above the damage with a steel sheet then underneath I mounted a piece of thick walled 2" square tubing. Attached the shock mount to the tubing. It's probably stronger now than originally. Reinforced and rewelded the spring perches and got rid of the d@mned air shocks.
How did the air shocks affect the mount? Did it break up into the trunk, or break loose from the mount?
Barry's way to go is the best. I would emphasize getting all stressed or damaged metal out of there, and replaced with good and then add in a good welder. Dan
Did you remove the other mount and run the tubing from frame rail to frame rail?Thanks for your help.
I only repaired the side that was broken. That was probably about 25 years ago. If you're ambitious and the area is accessable it could'nt hurt to reinforce both mounting points. Maybe someday if I remove the tailpipes I'll do that. Scooper, in my case the air shock ripped the upper mount right out of the sheetmetal channel. There is a hollow area between where the shock mount bolts to and the trunk floor. So after reinforcing the trunk floor the tubing fits up into the hollow area and bolts to the trunk floor. The bottom of the tubing is at the same level as the original sheetmetal that the shock mount was attached to originally. I tapped a couple holes in the lower surface of the tubing and bolted on the shock mount. Did all that make sense?
Were those air shocks inflated much when they punched through? I keep mine at the minimum 25-30psi (they are good for 25-300psi, I think). I don't want any lift, just firmness. I have lift from 1" drop shackles and will soon be swapping out my springs for 4-leaf. May lose the air shocks after that. Especially if I keep hearing horror stories. Barry, do you want me to add to your "trader rating" after I get those springs?
Barry, do you want me to add to your "trader rating" ... Only if it's positive. The air shocks were pumped up pretty stiff. If you get the chance you might want to replace them. Modern gas charged shocks handle so much better on a street car.
When I bought them, "handling" was not an issue. My side-pipes were hitting the ground on small bumps, so I used the shocks to lift about 1-2" to keep from tearing up the pipes. Since then, I have added shackles, and when I put in 4-leaf springs, I hear I will pick up another 3/8 or 1/2". THen off with the air shocks. Any way, I always worry that the little air-filler tube will chafe and get a hole, and all my pressure will go out.
Air shock handling can get pretty bad if you have the air hoses T-ed together. In a corner when the car leans it will force air out of the shock that's being compressed and into the shock that is extending, exaggerating the roll.
I have bolt-on traction bars, with only about 1/2" of movement before the springs hit. So I have never felt this "roll". The theory sounds correct, and I bet that is an interesting feeling when it occurs. Barry, Holler when you get those springs in the mail, so I can be sure I am home when they are delivered. My UPS guys will quickly knock on the door, and if no immediate answer, will run back to shop, or drop the package on the door step. Don't want either of these to happen. If I am home, I can catch them when I hear the truck pull up.
