Pinion Seal Torque Spec

Anyone have the torque spec for the pinion seal on a 1972 Grabber??

Also - what's the call on RTV around the new seal??

Thanks for the info!

-Dave

 

Anything...?

 

Are you talking about differential pinion?

assuming you have an 8" rear, 140 ft/lbs for main pinion nut, if that is what you are asking about. In other words, as tight as you can get it.

If you are asking for something else, clarify. I have lots of torque specs.

 

Yes I'm refering to the differential pinion seal. I'm pretty sure it's a 9" I don't think they made 5 lug 8" - did they?

Do you have the torque requirements for the main pinion nut on a 9"?

Also any opinion on the RTV around the seal. I've heard people say use it and others say not to.....but not a whole lot of reasoning behind it...?

Thanks.

 

If it is the stock differential, it is 8". And yes, they made 8" 5-lugs.

I used RTV. It will likely leak if you don't. Just a thin line to seal it up, the rest will squeeze out and get everywhere.

Also, while you are in there, you may want to drill and tap a hole in the bottom, 1/4" pipe thread, and put in a drain plug for later on. Well worth the extra work.

Are you changing gears, or putting in a locker/spool?

Good luck, that is a fun job.

 

Thanks for the info - I always thought it was a 9". It's stock as far as I know. I'm just replacing the seal (it was leaking) and switching the fluid. I'm just trying to get it buttoned back up because I'm moving at the end of the month. Figured I'd fix the leak rather than leak all over the new garage floor. I appreciate the information.

BTW do you have the Shop Manuals? I'm planning on buying them and I'm assuming they are worth the $$...

 

I use the Mustang II Haynes manual for most of my work. Except for the front suspension and steering, it is pretty much the same. I also have an old book from 1970 that is what they used in the Ford shop, it helps with some pretty obscure stuff.

Between those, and the Maverick Forum, all questions have been answered

 

When replacing the seal, you should mark the nut and the yoke/pinion shaft. Then line them back up when tightening back up. If you tighten it to much, it will sometimes preload the bearings too much and this can cause eventual failures and several other nasty issues. I always remove the wheels and pull the axles out, then turn the pinion by hand to make sure it is free with no binding or drag. There is a crush sleeve between the two bearings and everytime you tighten up that nut, it will sometimes alter that "crush" and also the bearing preload. My theory on this seal change out, is to tighten the nut up until there is no lateral movement on the pinion shaft and the thing spins freely. Using the lineup marks will probably put you right in the ballpark. RTV is ok, but personnaly, after finding remenants of it in the pinion bearing on tear downs, would rather use something like Gasketcinch or some other type of gasket sealer. Also check the yoke seal surface for any grooving etc, this can also still cause a new seal to leak around there also.