I got a call back from the guy that bought the headers for the P heads. He said they fit with no modificatons to the shock towers, plugs are easily accessible, regular size plugs, not shorties (this would save money in the long run, even if the headers are more expensive!). I gave him my e-mail address, and he said he would send pictures installed. He said he had to use the powersteering drop bracket, and nothing else, and NO interference anywhere. I didn't ask about having to jack up the motor for installation... The company is Ford Powertrain Applications, ask for Stan. I think he quoted me $425 raw, $495 coated. http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers1.htm They are the ones labeled "65-73 Mustang/Cougar 289/302 W/GTP and Dart Heads". They are a Tri-Y, rather than long tube. At least you clear everything and get to those plugs!!!
okay, just got off the phone with this company. They nickel plated is $450 & the ceramic is $650. He says the ceramic coating is inside & outside. It reduce the temp. about 300 degrees. Tube size is 1.5 & steps to 2 inches. I forgot to asked about the collector size. Also good ground clearance. They also work with GT40 heads. Thanks for the info.
Bare price is $400, I confirmed that by phone call afterward. May as well pay the little extra for nickel chrome. He said it is just like motorcycle mufflers, will blue toward the top,and stay shiny chrome the rest of the way. I think the biggest price is that they make them as you call for them. 8 days to build, then shipping. He did say that they had a nickel chrome in stock.
You're my hero, almost. "Tri-y instead of longtubes". But still, there's an easy solution out there. Thanks.
thanks for the link. I have been going back and forth about what vehicle to put my GTP engine into ever since I got it. so far have had it in my ranger mini-PU and fox-platform cars but never to stay since I've always wanted it in my Maverick. West Coast Mustangs guy told me theirs wouldn't work, didn't say why just "no they won't fit".
How much performance loss do we encounter with Tri-Ys over long tube? I would guess it is pretty small, maybe 2-3 HP? Of course, if mine was strictly a drag car, I would want those last 3 HP!!! I would much rather be able to make a pass, then yank out the #1 plug without having to loosen hot header bolts and wasting 20 minutes prying and cussing. Besides, I think Tri-Ys are prettier. Also, the guy I talked to who bought them says they don't hang down so low below the engine. Not as much as Hooker/Hedman longtubes.
Tri Y's moves the powerband around. They make more buttom end power. Also makes more torque. I guess, maybe they don't flow well when in higher RPM ranges over long tubes. My cam is a buttom end maker so it works out for me. I have also lowered the car 2.5 inches & wound like to go lower, so that a plus.
The Tri-Y's were used on the Shelby mustangs and the AC Cobra's to over 6500 RPM. They save a lot of low end without sacrificing top end at all. They do this because they are engineered to act as extractors at each step from 2 to 1 of 2 to 1. The collectors should be lengthened about 12 to 14 inches - depending on the cam you use - but they are great for use on any small block and Windsor engine within streetable standards. (351W at 6000; 302 at 6500; 289 at 7200) PaulS
what about the different firing order of 302 VS 5.0? My XE266HR is ground on a 351W firing order, so which impulse order are these made for? when I bought my tri-y collectors the maker claims best gains can found by turning the collector on its side to maximize the scavenge effect, depending on firing order.
