Ive yet to find any custom solid mounts for these cars,Only the universal ones. Any info will be appreciated...
You have to fab some up if you want true solid. Otherwise, I just take mine and drill a hole clean down through the 2 plates and rubber between. Then I stick a good bolt down through the hole, with a nylock nut on the other side. Tighten snug. This makes the mount tough to break, but keeps some insulation. Dave Btw: I figure on putting a piece of rectangular tube steel in place of my rubber insulator and welding it all up if I ever go totally solid.
Oh, I totally forgot about these... They are pretty sweet. I have seen them for sale, but don't remember where. From the looks of the bidding, they are pretty spendy. They are listed for 60s Cougar, Mustang, and Falcons. They also adjust an inch in width and 3 inches in front/back, so they surely would fit the Mav. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-66-67-68-69-70-MUSTANG-COUGAR-ADJUSTABLE-MOTOR-MOUNT_W0QQitemZ4588795809QQcategoryZ34202QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I made a set out of angle Iron, I took the original 6 cyl frame mounts, put em on the back side of the frame sticking straight up, then the angle iron bolted to the block, drilled a hole clean thru the angle where the frame mount hole is located and tightened it all down. I did think of slotting the angle iron holes where it mounts to the frame mount, so I could set the height of the engine where I wanted, Kinda reminds me of how the big block mopars set in their frame mounts,,,,,, took about an hour to make up, if that is a cheap but strong way to solid mount it. JMHO,,,, Chad
Just curious as to why you would want solid motor mounts. Seems to me it would transfer alot of vibration to the car's frame structure causing stress cracks at some point.
Just to get an idea on how the 302 fits without buyin parts just yet. I agree, it would shake it to death with how my engine runs, but, I just got bored and made up a pair for a mock build up till I get everything around for it. Id say if it was a drag car, or something like that, full steel would be ok,,, but like you said,, time will break it,,, I had a 80 mustang, that had solid mounts,, one night I was coming out of town, and nailed the windsor to the floor bout the same time I down shifted into second, and SNAP!!! there goes the mount, the throttle stuck wide open, from the engine coming up off the frame, I was lucky,, so when I find what Im looking for, Ill add a chain to help hold it down. Chad
Actually, it dosen't vibrate as bad as you would think. My dad's Comet had solid mounts that he made. The car was driven on the street for over 10 years with them, never had a problem. It didn't really have a noticeable vibration, just bounced up and down alot at red lights due to the cam. The car was actually very smooth going down the interstate and stuff with soild mounts. You could never really see out of any of the mirrors while the car was running though.
A close look at the ones in the auction shows that they actually do have some insulation. Looks like a poly bushing is all, but some insulation to say the least. Those do look easy to build. As for vibration, I think you are right. Regular engine mounts transfer all kinds of shake and rock, especially with a decent cam. However, there are harmonics that we don't notice going on all the time, they will get to the structure of the car too. Might not be terrible, but vibration is there and they are the reason for harmonic dampners and insulated engine mounts. The reason I like solid (my version with the rubber intact) is because there is no stretch or give under hard acceleration. Any give that lifts the engine at a different rate than it lifts the front end, is parasitic HP loss. To use the rotational torque to lift the car as a unit increases weight transfer and chassis response. Dave
You won't feel any vibrations. Put your hand on the valve cover of a well built properly running engine. What do you feel? Just the engine itself moving a little. I'm speaking from first hand experience on this. Yea, the car will have a little shake at times, but it won't vibrate itself apart.
You misunderstand, the 'vibrations' we are talking about are ones that you can't feel. Harmonics might be a better word. These are the super high frequency vibrations that your balancer, the weights on your flywheel, and the engine/tranny mounts attempt to isolate. These vibrations can break your crank (among other things), so there is concern that it could adversely stress the aged metal and welds on our vehicles. I don't 100% agree, but it is something to consider. Dave
Well, If i was on the street i would not want solid mounts. However, for drag racing solid mounts do help a little. Its the same theory on true posi rears. Not much fun on the street, A must at the track..
