I am hearing a tap near the #4 cylinder. Took the valve cover off and ran it and put my finger on each lifter just to see if one had a little play, and I was hearing a rocker tap. Didn't find anything odd. I assume it is a header leak on the #4, but how can I tell for sure? It is not quite a metal-to-metal sound, maybe the sound of a screwdriver hitting the side of a 1" diameter piece of bamboo. Mostly at idle, diminishes as rpms rise, and pretty much goes away after 2500 rpm. Clearly tapping once per revolution. Any suggestions or tests I can run to verify this? Tried a broomhandle on the #4 tube, but didn't seem to work. Is there something I can put on the flange and look for bubbles, or something?
Definately sounds like an exaust leak. Thats a good idea on putting a little oil down it to get it to smoke. Never even thought of that.
Is that safe? Sounds like a good idea, if it isn't going to gum up my carb. Maybe mystery oil, or similar (that can be added to fuel) or just regular old 30 wt?
Pull # 4 wire if noise is gone wrist pin knock and or cracked skirt, If its a ting ever pair of 6901 hookers ive had had a ting or small rocker peck. PS a short piece of garden hose helps isolate noise
No,It will not gum up the carb. Any thin oil will work.......I myself,use automatic tranny fluid. After you find the leak and a new gasket will do.....I would invest in a good name brand gasket....
Sure sounds like a header tick to me,, never had one leak on me with the 6901's. Use the best quality gasket you can find. Dan
Well...I hate to admit this, but I used the old bent up crappy copper gasket that came off the stock manifolds. That is one reason why I automatically assume it is header leak.
yeah, id suggest changing those with the thicker more durable ones for headers. usually with a header leak you can just put your finger near the edges of the header/head connection (not too close though) and feel warm air blowing out of the leak in a pencil head stream.
It wasn't an issue of saving money (what are they, like $20?). It was an issue of "I-don't-know-the-difference-between-manifold-and-header-gaskets" and I figured the old ones would work. It was an issue of "I was dumb, and learned the hard way". In the case of GT40Ps, it may be a VERY HARD way, as difficult as it is to pull that one header off. By the way, what IS the difference between a header and manifold gasket? Material, or thickness? I will hold off until I hear more from you guys in an educational manner ("cheapass" is not necessarily educational...well, it is, in a way...my dad would call me "cheapass" and let me figure it out for myself... ) and then do what I need to do to fix the problem. I figured it was like a thermostat gasket...you are SUPPOSED to replace it every time, but if it comes off in one piece, you usually put it back in, and it usually works. If it doesn't you are out like 99-cents. Only this time, it is $20. Oh, yeah...and I get to have the benefit of being called "cheapass". That is the best part .
Oh yeah...I forgot, "wino" and "ricer". By the way, I am drinking Boxed red wine tonight Just got back from driving to San Antonio and back for a new fender and door out of a junk yard. Nice and straight to replace my bunged up ones. That drive is nearly 5 hours each way. Took 12 hours from leaving home and getting back. Cheap rot-gut is the best way to unwind before bed...
...the exhaust gaskets will have 8 bolt holes each,and the intake should have 6 or less...if you're refering to the exhaust manifold,manifold ports are usually square and header ports are usually round......I have reused an exhaust gasket when in a pinch,but I also spray both sides of the gasket with "copper coat" or "spray-a-gasket", I have also used RTV sealer and/or weather-strip cement...
