My son recently purchased this maverick and it has a couple of problems that I hope some of you can shed some light on. 1, it idles very rough and stalls sometimes at the stop. I've checked all the vac lines, replaced the ones that were leaking. Next, I put the timing light on it and the mark doesn't come close to being in the range. I haven't messed with this kind of distributor setup before and an only familiar with my 93 mustang. Can anyone tell me what the procedure for adjusting the timing? 2 . It has an auto tranny on the column, and sometimes will go to reverse from park on its own. Is there any adjustments that can be made for this, and if so, where would it be located? Lastly, whats the best repair/maintenance manual I can get for this? Thanks in advance for your help. JLB
loosen the nut for the dizzy hold down bracket... out a timing light on the car and while its running press the trigger on the timing light and spin the dizzy until the light flashes at the recommneded timing mark... then tighten the bolt and take it for a spin... and see how it feels.. after you adjust timing, you will need to set the idle... its alot of trial and error, every car has a different timing point
It is always hard to diagnose a problem like yours over the computer, but I'll give it a shot. From the way you describe the engine running, it may very well be something as simple as the vacuum lines or the timing being off. Here is what I would do. Very first thing I would do is put a vacuum gauge into the system an see if there are any leaks. Specially if you have A/C as there a ton of vacuum lines that are under the dash and leaking lines will cause some real engine running issues. If the gauge is smooth, plug the vacuum line to the distributor and check the timing again to look for the marks. I like to use chalk so I can see the marks. If you can't see the timing mark yet, pull the #1 spark plug and get that cylinder up on compression at top dead center (TDC). Now look on the crank where the timing mark is, it should also be about at the TDC point too. Remember that the crank goes around 2 times so that mark on the crank will be at the TDC point on actual TDC and again at the end of the exhaust cycle. Get it on TDC of the compression cycle. Once the crank is in the right place, now check to make sure the distributor is pointing at the #1 plug wire. If it is pointing at any other place, double check everything again to make sure you have the crank in the right place. Once you are positive that the crank is in the right place, you may have to pull out the distributor and reinstall it correctly. Check and double check the plug wires to make sure they go to the correct place. Start her back up and set your timing as you will now see the marks for sure. If this has not solved the running issue, check the ignition system (points, plugs, wires ect) and preform a compression test to check for worn internal parts. For the tranny to drop out of park, 99% of the time I have found that to be slop in the linkage. If the operator isn't engaging the lever into park all the way with sufficient force, a little slop will have it drop out into reverse while the car is running. This was a big news story about Ford products for years in the 70's and 80's. Check all the linkage for slop in the rubber grommets and replace as needed. Last - To me the best books and the only books to rely on are a set of factory Ford Shop Manuals. You can buy a set specific to your year of car on ebay or at any big swap meet. Expect to pay about $40 for a complete set, but it is the only way to go IMO. Hope this helps, Eric J
To all that responded, many thanks. When I try to set the timing @ TDC, the car will barely idle. I think that there is still a major vacuum leak somewhere. I did find the ford svc manual set for this year on ebay for $30.00, and an out of print Chiltons also ($15). I guess I'll wait until these arrive and see how bad the previous owner messed up the vacuum lines as there are numerous makeshift plugs. If the EGR is sticking or bad, will that cause hesitation on acceleration? Sorry for all the questions, but my stang tells me everything that is wrong. Thanks again
your running your timing at tdc? shouldnt it be at least 6 before tdc? dont have my book with me here but, running it too late will cause just as much trouble as running to early, just different. when you find where your recommended to run and set it there, then adjust your fuel mixture and idle.
i agree with what you posted for sure, but if you read his follow up post he says it wont idle smooth at tdc.maybe he didnt catch what you said about timing it once he finds tdc
Yes you are right about needing to advance the timing. It should still be smooth at idle if it is at TDC if there are no other problems. I think the biggest issue is going to come out as a vacuum leak from the sound of it. A vacuum gauge is a very useful diagnostic tool. One of the best things to learn how to read. Northern Nevada huh - I have a brother that lives in Sparks.
to answer his question.. about the EGR valve.. yes if it is bad or clogged it will run rough... and it can cause it to die at idle..
As Acornridgeman said, I just used the TDC to get the timing close. Its idling faily well now at about 6-8 advance. When accelerating, it wants to stall. I've checked all the vacuum lines and all seem to be ok. I read that a bad vacuum advance could cause the same symptoms. How would I check this and if it is bad, how do I replace it? (Haven't recieved my manuals yet) Thanks again to everyone for all your assistance.
The main way I know of for a vacuum advance to go bad is the diaphragm to rupture and leak air (hint--this is another way to get a vacuum leak). Disconnect the vacuum line to the module and hook up a vacuum pump to the module (so you can apply vacuum to the module--a clean vacuum line and you sucking on the other end works in a pinch). The module's arm should retract when vacuum is applied, and stay retracted as long as you're applying the vacuum. If you get no movement (and you can't build any vacuum at all), then you know the module is bad and needs to be replaced. These modules should still be available from any auto parts store. There's also a machine shop down in Texas that I've done business with that rebuilds these modules. They're useful for really old cars where a new replacement module is no longer being made. However, if you can't find a new module through the regular auto parts store, you can give these guys a try (they do really good work): Terrill Machine 1000 County Road 454 DeLeon, TX 76444 254-893-2610
I also read in one of the threads (can't remember which one) that the vacuum advance on the dizzy should face the front of the engine. Is this true?
the advance "should" be in front. the dizzy could have been put back in 180 degrees off though by a previous owner, so go by the timing marks and when you found tdc. if you want to clock it, you can pull out the dizzy and reinstall correctly once the timing is set.
You must be thinking of V8 engines. On both my Comet and '81 Zephyr (200 six, same engine essentially as in the 200 CID six cylinder Mavericks, and related to the 250 six, just different bore/stroke), the advance's vacuum hose nipple points towards the firewall. If you're standing on the driver's side fender looking into the engine compartment, the module should be at about the 4:00 position, with noon being the engine itself. I may be slightly off on the position, but the module is definitely on the firewall side of the distributor, not in front pointing towards the radiator. Joe
