yep, sorry. you can still clock it to wherever you want it if its hitting something before you get it set. my i6 mav only needed it set once though, checked out every tune up after that right where i left it.
To all that have helped I would like to say thanks for your time and patience. This little six banger is somewhat different from my 93 mustang. I really appreciate the advice and assistance. The out of print Chiltons I ordered came today and it looks like it will anwser alot of the questions. Still waiting on the Ford shop manuals to arrive. Again, I thank you all and my son thanks you as well. JLB
The Chiltons is a good basic referance book - but you will absolutely love the detail of the factory manuals! Keep us posted on your progress
Another question I hope someone can help with with until my factory manuals arrive (Chiltons was not much help). I believe the carb on this is a Holley reman Carter YF-IV. I has a throttle solenoid, no anti-stall dashpot. When tracing the vacuum lines for possible leaks, I found a metal line that connects to the carb (I think its a choke heater tube connection) that snakes down the block. It was broken off, and plugged. Is this necessary, and if so, when does it connect? Could this be the source of the poor idle, stalling problems I'm having? Thanks again in advance JLB
the metal line going to the choke is to heat the spring and open your choke. later model vehicles and after market carbs use an electric feed to heat that spring and open the choke. if you dont have an aftermarket conversion and dont have the heat line connected somewhere, this could be causing your choke to not open enough and your vehicle to run rough. I think there are other ways to bypass this, but ive always just converted to the electrical setup. hope that helps
When you set you`r timing did you do it with the vac. advance unplugged and the vac. line plugged off ?
i cant remeber how the i6 was but i know on my mav it went into a hole on the exhaust manifold. the wifes cougar had one that went into a plate on the intake manifold, it was on one of the ports that let some exhaust gas in. just look for a small hole in about the right area for that to stick into and see if hot air comes from it
Finally got the factory manual set. Alot of good info in here. By the way, I had a big leak in carb mounting gasket (diagnosed with carb cleaner). Replaced it and now the car is actually idling like it should at factory spec RPMs. I just need to reset the low and curb idle now that the leak is fixed. But even with the manuals, I can't tell where the choke heater line is supposed to hook up at. Also, is there anyway to eliminate the EGR all together, including the back pressure transducer? The PO or someone down the line ditched the vacuum resevoir, wide open throttle valve, delay valve, cold weather modulator, etc. Would just like to clean up under the hood as much as possible. Thanks again JLB
For all who had input and guidance, I thank you. Come to find out, whoever put the carb on screwed up the gasket pretty good and it was pulling considerable air (diagnosed with carb cleaner). Replaced the gasket, set the timing for the last time and set the idles and she runs fine now. Now, we move on to the interior. Thanks again JLB
