Electric choke

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Bill in NC, Dec 31, 2005.

  1. Bill in NC

    Bill in NC Member

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    Anyone have some good tips on how to set up an electric choke on an Edelbrock? It's supposed to be a 600cfm on the car, but the guy didn't wire up or set the choke. I would like to have the choke working, but not sure where to start. Also having a problem with having to hit the gas to start the car after it's warmed up. Seems to be getting a little too much fuel on start up? Thanks.
     
  2. Bluegrass

    Bluegrass Jr. mbr. not really,

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    The choke lead should go to the 'S' or stator terminal of the voltage regulator.
    The reason for this is so the choke heater does not begin to heat up before the engine is started but only after the alternator begins outputting voltage.
    Should there be a delay in starting, the choke could begin to open to soon if hooked to a 12 volt supply thru the ignition switch.

    On hot start problem, if it acts flooded there could be a high float level and/or engine heat soak may be a problem causing fuel spill over from perculation.
     
  3. Bill in NC

    Bill in NC Member

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    Bluegrass, thank you. Gives me something to work on today :)
     
  4. dmhines

    dmhines Dixie Maverick Boy

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    I used one of the factory wires coming out of my firewall that wasn't plugged into anything. Just make sure it is 12V with key on ... and 0 V with key off ...

    Depending on the year of your car just use the factory electric choke wire ...
     
  5. Bill in NC

    Bill in NC Member

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    Alright, it's hooked up to a switched source and seems to be working correctly. The last owner of the carb had turned it over 180 so it could never set. Which is what threw me off since I wasn't able to see the positive and negative markings and the line for rich/lean adjustment. Still having the problem starting the car after fully warmed up. After paying attention a little more, I think maybe it's not getting enough gas on start up. It seems it has to turn over longer to get to where it starts sucking gas in to run. I've never had this problem before so I appreciate any help. I don't have any other problems. Seems to run great w/ no hesitation, you can hear the 4bbls when they kick in, and idles much better after adjusting it back down from 1,200 rpm's. No idea why this guy had both screws adjusted all the way out and the idle set screw way in.
     
  6. Max Power

    Max Power Vintage Ford Mafia

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    If you use the S terminal off the alternator, make sure it gives off 12v when running. Not all of them do.
     
  7. Bluegrass

    Bluegrass Jr. mbr. not really,

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    A lot of people don't believe it when I say to use the S terminal and the reason why.
    It's the way Ford did it from the factory on stock carbs for that reason.
    But to each his own.
     
  8. Bill in NC

    Bill in NC Member

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    I used a ring terminal and slid it onto the "I" terminal on the solenoid. It was a very easy (slide on) installation and stays hidden behind the other wires at the regulator. This source only gave me 7v w/ the key on and 11v while running. The choke coil appears to heat up and release the choke just as quick with the 11v as it did hooked straight to the battery w/ 14v (car running). Another reason I used the easily accessable approach was after looking at the wiring and where the coil was moved to, I decided in the spring I'm going to redo some of the wiring and routing to clean it up a little. When I do that I'll connect at the "S" and make it look as factory as I can.


    On a seperate note, what is the switch looking thing mounted behind the washer fluid reservoir <sp? between the shock tower?
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2006
  9. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    It is a starter interupt switch. Do a search on here and you will see it explained.
     
  10. FTH73

    FTH73 Average Bear

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    Explaine Please

    I did a search on "starter interupt switch" and it led me to this post. What's up?:hmmm:
     
  11. Bill in NC

    Bill in NC Member

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    Mee too:) . Although I did start opening my eyes a little and looking around some to find out that this subject has been covered a few times in the last year or two:huh:. Never thought to look in the manual for an electric choke wire. I don't think that book has been touched in 3 years:D . Anyway thanks for the patience and tips guys.
     
  12. FTH73

    FTH73 Average Bear

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    I just want to know the truth

    I wouldn’t hook just to the S post....who sits in their car on a cold day without turning it completely on? And who cars if current is still going to the choke after 55* everything keeps getting hotter. I don't think it's explained in any post. I'm curious about the starter interrupt switch too.
     
  13. FTH73

    FTH73 Average Bear

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    I busted out the chilton's

    The electric choke wire goes to the center tap of the Alternator (Black Identification Ring)

    I didn't even care but now I know... I suppose I'll relocate my e-choke wire now
     
  14. Bluegrass

    Bluegrass Jr. mbr. not really,

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    The center tap of the alternator winding is the S terminal.
    Those of you that has a Haynes book, look on page 44 and tell us what you see hooked to the S terminal..
     
  15. FTH73

    FTH73 Average Bear

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    Sorry

    No Haynes manual. I thought you were talking about attaching to the solenoid post marked "S"
     

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