Engine swap questions

Discussion in 'Technical' started by JLB, Feb 13, 2006.

  1. JLB

    JLB Member

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    A few questions I hope you all can clarify and help with. I pulled the old, dead tired 170 from the Mav yesterday. When I pulled it, we (my son Andy and I) jacked up the tranny a little and finnessed the engine out with the torque converter, but left the bell housing attached to the tranny. My questions are as follows:

    #1 I ordered an engine from a place near Seattle that had no 170's, so I went with the 200 instead. Same year block. Everything (tranny/bellhousing) should bolt right up?

    #2 Upon inspection of the flywheel, it looks like about every 4-5 inches or so the teeth are "beveled" like they were worn off at at an angle (I know this aint right). The starter teeth looked, but there are metal shavings present.
    Where is a good place to get another flywheel, and should the starter be replaced as well?

    #3 Should I remove the bellhousing and attach it and the torque converter prior to installing the new engine? Looking for the easiest way to get everything lined up and not have to wrestle with it too much.

    #4 How do you get the fuel pump off? Seems like its welded on (although I know it isn't).

    Thats really it for now. Will post pics tonight of the "gutless" Mav and again on Thursday when the new engine is delivered. Hope to get it in the coming weeked.

    Thanks
    Jim/Andy
     
  2. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    i haven't really worked on a 6 yet, but whenever i take an engine out i disconnect the torque convertor from the flexplate. an automatic uses a flexplate, a standard uses a flywheel. when putting it back in you have to put the tc into the tranny first. this allows you to seat the tc. it has to go in at least 2 clicks. put it on the input shaft, push it all the way in and turn it. you'll hear a couple of clicks as it seats. bolt the flexplate to the engine, always use some locktite on the flexplate bolts. line up the tc and flexplate, put it in and bolt it up. make sure everything turns okay. good luck. i'd assume you can get a new flexplate at any checkers, napa, pep boys, or other parts store.
    the fuel pump should be held on by a couple of bolts, with a gasket in between. probably stuck on there from years of use. do you have a chiltons manual. if not, i'd advise getting one. :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2006
  3. JLB

    JLB Member

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    Thanks Don, gonna pull the tranny tonight so i can get it all together correctly and then hopefully it will be easier to re-install.
    Jim
     
  4. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    if your going to do this more often, one of the best tools i've found is a tranny jack from harbor freight. goes for about $59 on sale, which is quite often. just put the tranny on it and raise it up to the height you need. then roll it forward. makes the job a lot easier. :)
     
  5. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    200 will bolt right in. Don pretty much hit it on the head. Do not pull the bell housing, pull the torque converter off the flex plate and install it on the transmission first. Make sure you dump about a quart of trans fluid in the torque conveter prior to installing it in the trans.

    It is much easyer to get the engine lined up and back in if you pull the transmission at the same time and drop them both back in together. I've helped put an engine in with the transmission still in the car, was more trouble then it's worth trying to get the thing lined up and bolted to the trans IMO.

    If the fuel pump is stuck after removeing the bolts, tap it a few times with a rubber mallet. Should come right off.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2006
  6. JLB

    JLB Member

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    Thanks to all for the advice and guidance. Have kinda stalled with the progress due to the fact I'm usually dead tired when I get home from work. Hopefully will get out early today, finish pulling the dampener and timing cover off the old block and start cleaning parts. When I pulled the old engine, I wasn't too concerned, so I just attached the chains to some head bolts, but when I put the new one in, I don't want to do that, so whats the best option for attaching it to the hoist?

    Thanks
    Pics tonight... I hope
    Jim/Andy
     
  7. Earl Branham

    Earl Branham Certified Old Fart

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    I had a 200 in a '64 Falcon, and put the 170 head on it. Made it run a whole lot better. Gives it another point or so of compression. Same size valves, so no performance loss. Give it a try!
     
  8. JLB

    JLB Member

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    Update

    Here are some pics of the progress. Got the engine today. Have some before and during. Will post more as parts get cleaned, painted, put on etc. Getting to the good part now.

    Thanks again
    Jim
     

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  9. JLB

    JLB Member

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    One more
     

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    Last edited: Feb 17, 2006
  10. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    i see you left the trany in the car...:rolleyes: ...frank...:bouncy:
     
  11. JLB

    JLB Member

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    Just haven't got a chance to pull it yet.Maybe tomorrow.
     
  12. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    If you are planning to put the engine and trans both back in one swing, it will make your life alot easier to remove the shock tower braces.
     
  13. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    jacking the front of the car up as high and safe will help also...frank...:bouncy:
     
  14. JLB

    JLB Member

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    Thanks for the info, tranny comes out tomorrow. Whats the best way to get the old seal out of the timing cover? Adn how do you get the ol dipstick case out of the old block? Also, one more thing, the carb spacer off the 170 os too big for this 200, even though I gave them the casting numbers and all. Where can I get a smaller carb spacer to fit this?

    Slowly but surely....
    Thanks in advance
    Jim
     

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