Engine Re-install

Discussion in 'Technical' started by JLB, Feb 27, 2006.

  1. JLB

    JLB Member

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    Ok, I'm about to the point where I am ready to put the motor and tranny (together) back in the Mav. My question is, where is the best place to attach the hoist? When I pulled the old motor, I just used 2 of the head bolts, as I was not concerned about any damage, which is not the case now. I pulled the trans separately.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Jim
     
  2. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    what type of motor is it? i've never used the head bolts, but i have used the accesory bolt holes in the front and rear of the heads. on a v-8 i use a plate that bolts to the manifold where the carb goes. you can buy them for about $15 at any auto parts store like checkers, pep boys, auto zone, etc. i've never pulled a 6 yet, but that's coming shortly.:)
     
  3. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    I've used head bolt holes when the heads are off, or if the heads are on, accessory holes, exhaust manifold holes. I thought about getting one of those plates that goes on the intake manifold but I'm leary about those aluminum threads holding the weight. I see them use that method on TV and in magazines all the time though.
     
  4. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    put the intake on it.... and use a engine lift plate.. it will bolt directly to the carb area on the intake... it will lift the engine straight up.... if the engine and tranny are already connect.. i would suggest use the front and back of the heads...

    front of the drivers side.. back of the passengers side...
     
  5. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Missing my old '70 Maverick
    $20.16 At National Wholesale Tools (hooked on front accessory threaded
    hole on front and similar threaded hole on opposite and rear of engine.
    Acutally, could bolt it to two more locations - with bolts/washers)

    Load Leveler / Engine Sling - worth way more (IMO):

    [​IMG]

    from HERE.

    (reminds me, I need get one to get one of my own)
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2006
  6. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Looking at some other items on that site, I wonder why a 1/2 ton chain hoist costs more than a 1 ton model?
     
  7. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

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    I will not use one of these. I know they probably work fine but like Barry said. 4 small studs in aluminum just sounds too iffy to me. I use the exhaust bolt holes cause you can shift foward or backward a few holes to get the balance right. The cradel Rick showed is good if you have alot of overhead height. If your using a cherry picker, you might not get enough height with one of those.
     
  8. mike75mav

    mike75mav Member

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    Hey Jim
    There should be a plate comeing up on one side to hook the chain to for the back and I think one is on the front. Same setup as a 250. The plate is on the side of the engine. When I pulled my 200 there was one plate in the front where you hook up and the back I think a bolt the chain where the bracket for the gas throttle is connect to. Look on your old engine they should have some thing. If not have a few beers LOL.
     
  9. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    I've pulled several 6 cylinders and put a couple back in. I usually put one end of the chain on the second up engine to bell housing bolt and if you look at the drivers side front of the bock there will either be a metal thing to hook a chain to or 2 holes where it is supposed to bolt up. I put the other end of the chain there.

    The engine needs to be almost verticle when you initially drop it in, like the pic shows. It helps to have someone either lay under the car to direct the transmission in, or tie a rope around the end of it so you can lower the hoist some and pull the transmission back and then lower again and repeat until everything is where it should be. Just remember to go slow and take your time. You definately need to remove the shock tower braces if you haven't already. I noticed in your other thread they were still in place. They will get in the way of the rear chain, valve cover and intake when you go to drop the engine back in.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2006
  10. funkranger

    funkranger Member

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  11. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

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    In order for the shear configuration to be a factor you have two loads pushing in opposite directions at the same point. By using a bolt in the side you only have one. The bolt will bend long before it breaks. In the exhaust, your not pulling on the threads, rather the bolt body is taking the force. The studs on the intake manifold are plenty strong enough to lift a motor and trans. Its pulling directly on the aluminum threads that scares me. How much effort does it take to strip out aluminum threads? In my experience, not much. I'm not saying you cant use the plate or its not safe, it must be or they wouldnt sell them. I'm just saying I wont do it.
     
  12. funkranger

    funkranger Member

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    (y) to each his own
     
  13. JLB

    JLB Member

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    Jamie, I took your advice on the chain placement. Worked like a charm. My son and I had it in and mounted in about an hour. Took at least that long to get the tranny cooling lines attached....everything else fit like a glove. The shock tower braces were removed. Thanks again for the advice. New motor looks good. Now today we'll see if we can get it running.
    Jim/Andy
     

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