If anyone can tell me the best way to build a 302 without stroking it, and to make enough power to get a 73 maverick into the low 12's or high 11's without nitrous oxide I would greatly appreciate it. I know I am going to use a solid lift cam. I have a 3500 stall so I can not go very big. I also have either a 4.30 or a 4.62 gear so I will probably have to change that. Also I am going to need some good aftermarket heads, how big of an intake runner should I use? I noticed afr 185 heads flow as well as some heads with an intake runner size of 200 or more, but with smaller runners will you lose top end? Thanks Steve
In order to get a "small" engine to make alot of horsepower without a power adder means you are gonna have to spin the snot out of it!! It can be done but in order for one of these little 302's to live under alot of rpm's you will need to use the best components along with some top of the line machine work. This will not be cheap by any stretch of the imagination so be prepared to spend the $$$$$. Another thing, you must decide on what you want to do with the car....if it will be a strip car only it will be easier to go that fast because you can just strip the car out and drop a bunch of weight. If you keep all the original interior and don't want to lighten the car up it will take more horsepower to go that fast.
RE I would get the compression up to 10.5 or so and run the AFR 185s. solid cam around 240 intake 248 exhaust. 108lsa. Run the 4.63 gears. That should run low 12s EASY, Maybe put a set of Scat rods in it. My buddy has a flat top 302 with chevy 400 rods. Herbert roller 244/250 640lift Victor jr heads. 4.88 gears 4000 stall. He turns it 7500 to 8000 daily. I dont recomend it but it seem to hold together. It runs in the high 10s
I would run an 87 or newer roller 5.0 with the above mentioned mods, should get you where you want quite easily.
why go with a hyd roller? Use an early block, the lightest pistons you can find, good H-beam rods, and a good set of heads, and you're there easily. Maybe even 10's in a light car with a 4 or 5 speed. Yes, you'll have to wind it up, but the little 302s love rpm...the more the better! Just have to make sure the parts will take the abuse. Check Ebay for rods...there are a few companies that sell Eagle and Scat rods for cheap$. We use SRP and wiseco pistons, SRP's more because they cost just a hair more than their heavy cousins, the TRW's. Some say it's not worth the extra cost for the weight savings. Dad's car was turning 7.40's constistently in the 1/8 with a 12.7:1 trw piston 302 (pistons are 740 grams each). We changed to lighter SRP's (which were the same price BTW) that weighed 520 grams, and so far it's running 7.20's, and is way more consistent. Shooting for some 6.90's when the weather cools down this fall. Go for a solid roller cam & lifters. Price out a good Hyd roller, and all 16 lifters and they're the same price. Only thing is, you'll have to make darn sure you get good valves, springs, and retainers/keepers. Most aftermarket heads already are equipped, or can be had that way. All in all, building horsepower is easy. Just think it all out, make sure all the parts work WITH each other and when choosing parts, stay on the conservative side, but keep it's purpose in mind. For instance, don't buy a set of shorty 1 1/2" tube headers for a high-rpm drag motor....they'll work, but there is a better choice. Takes a lot of thought, but WELL worth it in the end!
My set up dyno'd at 303 rear wheel hp which figures right at 370 flywheel. All peaks were around 5400 RPM and the curve was almost flat from 3000 to to 6300 (rev limiter). I'm running hyd roller. I could probably get a little more out of it with a carb spacer and port matching the intake. This should easily put me in the 12's as long as I can get it to the ground. My set up is as follows: 71 302 bored .30, Keith Black 115 pistons, Childs & Albert Zero gap rings (I do not recomend these rings), Stock rods & crank, windage tray, ARP bolts, Comp Cams hydraulic roller .566/.576 gross lift, 232/240 duration @ .50, Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers on 7/16 studs, AFR 185's, ported, polished and milled, to yeld 10:1 compression, Eddlebrock RPM Air Gap manifold, Speed Demon 650 carb. I am running electric fan & fuel pump, none on engine. All MSD ignition, Hooker Comp headers, Dr Gas X pipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, All exhaust 2 1/2" after collector, Top Loader 4 spd, 9" with detriot locker, 31 spline axles and 3:89 gears.
Mavaholic, your problem would be getting it to the ground and PLANTING it there. That's way to many ponys for your street tires to hold, all you would be doing is leaving a lot of rubber. Sounds like it might be time for some street slicks for the sprint. I agree with mavman soild roller all the way! As always just my 02. Terry Gates AKA Bossmav
306 solid roller no power adders best et 10.88 120 1.47 60 ft 6800 rpm 185 afr rpm intake 600 holley HP 3.70 gear 9" c-4 5000 stall flash converter 8" no brake runs in no/e at houston racway park (they checked me for a trans- brack last time i ran their them chev boys think im cheating) 2400 lb car 1200 lb on both ends i have lots of fun with this car good luck with yours if i can help just e-mail the fordman
Rick have you got your car ready to race were racing in baytown sat we have been off three weeks glad to get back to the race track we went to Eavadale the new track boy it was sure hot but the track is doing good i broke out on the last round 32 on a 34 but it was fun if you can come on out sat we will be their if it aint raining
